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Elevation: 4,919 ft 1,499 m
GPS: 34.35097, -111.28569
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,153 total · 79/month
Shared By: Manny Rangel on Aug 28, 2022
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen
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Description Suggest change

This area is easily accessible to all and it shows. The parking lot gets full rapidly on weekends with day hikers and families looking for a shallow swimming experience. The routes are on a south-facing or north-facing aspect. The left side is the sunny winter friendly side with typical rough granite. The right side is north-facing and most is smooth polished granite with great edges. Cracks have anchors for safety and to ease the movement from climb to climb. Be kind to the mass of people that use this uber popular area, many are interested in finding out more about climbing and we want to make friends, not enemies. Most of the routes are short and some stout too. Please bring a wag bag if you can't make it back to the restroom in the parking lot. Bring a plastic bag for the inevitable trash you will find too.

Getting There Suggest change

From the north-most traffic circle at the Payson Home Depot, drive to the next exit a few yards north, Houston Mesa Road. Take this paved road to the Permit kiosk just past Mesa Del Caballo village. Continue about 7 miles to the Water Wheel parking lot on the east side of the road. Walk along the path heading upstream about 5 minutes until the granite walls appear.

First area appears on opposite river bank, the Forehead.

Continue forward to reach the tall trees on the path. The North Wall begins here. Ahead across the river is the South wall. 

Continue forward past South Wall to Ellison Creek. Cross to reach Ellison Thumb on the right.

25 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Water Wheel Falls Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Water Wheel Falls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 8
● Larry
Trad
N Wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
● Curly
Trad
N Wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
● Tweedle Dee
Sport
S Wall
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
● Moe
Trad
N Wall
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
● Loripalooza
Trad
N Wall
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 6
● Obi Wan Knoble
Trad
N Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
● Emma
Sport
N Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
● Dylan Jane
Sport
N Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
● The Pawn
Trad
N Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
● Moss o Menos
Sport
S Wall
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
● Route 66
Sport
N Wall
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 6
● More Juice
Sport
S Wall
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Larry N Wall
 8
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
● Curly N Wall
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Tweedle Dee S Wall
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Moe N Wall
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Loripalooza N Wall
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Obi Wan Knoble N Wall
 6
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Emma N Wall
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Dylan Jane N Wall
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● The Pawn N Wall
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Moss o Menos S Wall
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Route 66 N Wall
 6
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● More Juice S Wall
 6
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Water Wheel Falls »

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The South Wall.
The South Wall.
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