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Torre dei Sabbioni

International > Europe > Italy > Dolomites > Marmarole Group

Description

Torre dei Sabbioni is a stunning, secluded tower of Dachstein Limestone, situated in the western sector of the Marmarole Group. It was first climbed in 1877 by Luigi Cesaletti, the mountain guide of the town of San Vito di Cadore, during a time when all of the focus was on the major peaks of the area. With his bold solo of this "secondary" tower, Cesaletti initiated what is referred to as the "second epoch" of mountaineering in the Dolomites.

Getting There

The most common approach is from Rifugio Scotter. In the early season, it is sometimes possible to drive some (or all) of the way to the rifugio. In the high season, it will be necessary to park at the Sun Bar (the bottom of Ski Area San Vito) and hike an additional hour or so to the rifugio.

From the junction near Rifugio Scotter, turn north and follow the path toward Rifugio San Marco. If you plan it well, you can spend a night in the rifugio and make a much shorter approach to the tower the next day.

From Rifugio San Marco, hike 45 minutes or so to Forcella Grande. Look for a climber's trail to the easy (on your right) which cuts across the hillside directly to the tower.

Routes from Left to Right

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 1
Via Normale (Via Cesaletti)
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Via Normale (Via Cesaletti)
 1
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad, Alpine 6 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Croda Marcora, Punta Sorapiss, and Torre dei Sabbioni from Forcella Grande
[Hide Photo] Croda Marcora, Punta Sorapiss, and Torre dei Sabbioni from Forcella Grande