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Torre dei Sabbioni Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Torre dei Sabbioni

Via Normale (Via Cesaletti) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

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Elevation:	7,961 ft
GPS:	46.48986, 12.2328 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	136 total · 15/month
Shared By:	Ryan Nevius on Jul 3, 2022
Admins:	Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath Page Updates (admin only)

Description

Torre dei Sabbioni is a stunning, secluded tower of Dachstein Limestone, situated in the western sector of the Marmarole Group. It was first climbed in 1877 by Luigi Cesaletti, the mountain guide of the town of San Vito di Cadore, during a time when all of the focus was on the major peaks of the area. With his bold solo of this "secondary" tower, Cesaletti initiated what is referred to as the "second epoch" of mountaineering in the Dolomites.

Getting There

The most common approach is from Rifugio Scotter. In the early season, it is sometimes possible to drive some (or all) of the way to the rifugio. In the high season, it will be necessary to park at the Sun Bar (the bottom of Ski Area San Vito) and hike an additional hour or so to the rifugio.

From the junction near Rifugio Scotter, turn north and follow the path toward Rifugio San Marco. If you plan it well, you can spend a night in the rifugio and make a much shorter approach to the tower the next day.

From Rifugio San Marco, hike 45 minutes or so to Forcella Grande. Look for a climber's trail to the easy (on your right) which cuts across the hillside directly to the tower.