Alaska Beach Rock Climbing

Sector Alaska Beach is a high quality face of gray limestone with the occasional yellow tufa streak. As of January 2022 there are 8 routes at this sector with grades ranging from the 6b to 7b. Despite the south orientation of the wall, much of this cliff is sheltered in shade due to an adjacent rock formation that casts a shadow. You can expect a breeze through the gap where the sector is located making it cooler than the surrounding south facing walls so be prepared with appropriate clothing. The routes here are characterized by 40 meter long vertical adventures. Bolt spacing is not run out yet allows no opportunity for z clipping.

The development of this sector was started by 2 visiting climbers from Alaska and Germany. A considerable amount of effort has been put into creating a modern sport climbing wall with the intent of this sector to become a model for the Manikia Project to follow.  If future development takes place it is respectfully requested that new routes share the characteristics of the original climbs and the following recommendations are considered.

Route Development 101

Collaborate with the Manikia Project

Quality over quantity

Approach Trail

• Address erosion issues

• Avoid steep slopes / grades / scree...

Belay Area 

• Cut brush away from bottom of wall for comfortable belaying and rope work

• Roughly clear and flatten bass area for easy staging of material

• Create a flat area at the start of the route for visualizing first bolt

Clean Wall

• Starting from the top, remove rocks that present an overhead hazard.

• Remove vegetation.

• Prybar large blocks.

• Wire brush lichen and moss when condition are not to wet.

• Leaf blower when thermal drafts and wind are appropriate. (night)

Develop Climb

• Visualize the potential route keeping in mind proximity to other climbs, consistency of grade, aestheticness....

• Set rocks at base for visual / physical markers of routes 2.5  meters apart minimum.

• Top rope the potential route with chalk to mark lead bolt locations keeping in mind safety, ledge fall hazards, rope drag.

• Place anchor in location that maximizes rock potential (top of: wall, quality rock, standard rope length or maintaining consistent grade) while keeping minimum rope drag or traversing.

• Mock lead route confirming safe and convenient clipping holds that are not height-dependent.

• Bolt from top down if it will yield a higher-quality final product. 

• Climb for grade confirmation (multiple people)

Share Beta

• Create quality topos 

• Post on Mountain Project, The Crag, 8a, 27 Crags and other online forums

• Collaborate with the guide book author

• Post photos

• Invite friends and other climbers.