The Sun Towers was one of the best beginner crags in the canyon housing several fun moderates including a couple of the easiest multi-pitch climbs in the canyon. Unfortunately, the main block of the crag is now closed. The WCCC and Access Fund continue to make attempts to negotiate access again, but in the meantime, most of the Bee Hive/Daffy Duck Pinnacle and the Twin Owls are still on BLM Land and open to climbing.
The Sun Towers have always been on private property, and Unaweep locals Bob and Lisa Eakle had been able to maintain a relationship with the previous landowner to keep the towers open. They even built trails leading from the BLM parking and placed signs to help people find their way around here. Unfortunately for climbers, the property has sold, and the new owners are unwilling to allow climbing on their property, as is their right. The way I look at it, if I owned a property and a cult wanted to worship a vortex on my land, I would likely say no, maybe we’re not a cult, but to non-climbers, we do kinda act like one, haha.
Like most of the canyon, there are cliffs behind or to the side of private property, on BLM or Forest Service land, and every once in a while that public land comes down and touches the road allowing public access to the cliffs. Here is another example and the Eakle Trail system leads up to some great routes on the two blocks that are still on public land, The Bee Hive/Daffy Duck Pinnacle and Twin Owls.
I believe it is important to leave the route listings for the Sun Towers posted for posterity but also to remind people how delicate access is in the canyon. Please respect the closure, and try to remember that this is their home, and we are the visitors.
5/17/23 update: with the closure of the Sun Towers, Bob, Lisa, and some of their friends have been focusing a lot of time and energy developing more moderate routes on the blocks that are still on public land, adding to the Bee Hive and Twin Owls as well as adding two sport routes to the shorter block in between them that they called the Fledgling. While we will miss many of the routes at the Sun Towers, these new routes once again make this a great spot for beginners to cut their teeth or more seasoned climbers to have a chill day. Bob and Lisa aren’t really on MP so they have asked me to post these routes for them.