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The Crumbling Castle Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Crumbling Castle

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Autoerotic Asphyxiation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

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Elevation:	5,682 ft	1,732 m
GPS:	40.69358, -105.28975 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	842 total · 22/month
Shared By:	Alex Morano on Oct 19, 2021
Admins:	James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

From the Canyon Lakes Ranger District Forest Service:

Fort Collins, Colo. (March 7, 2024) – to protect nesting birds of prey, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in several popular recreation areas throughout the Canyon Lakes Ranger District. The closures include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details. Effective through July 31, 2024, the closures protect established raptor territories to ensure the birds remain undisturbed during sensitive breeding and nesting seasons.

The Canyon Lakes Ranger District partners with Colorado Parks & Wildlife and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.

Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.

A map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….

Additional information: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….

Description

What looked like an area for promising new development from the road turned out to be a rotten rock nightmare with an unpleasant approach and cactus at every possible belay pad. The Crumbling Castle is a block of granite located not very far into the canyon. It provides warm sun for the majority of the day. New, extremely thin, vertical granite lines are definitely a possibility, but the amount of cleaning would be extreme.

Getting There

Park at the Grey Rock parking area. From here, you can cross the bridge, and follow the trail until it begins to cut away from the river. From here, bushwhack your way to the looming granite nightmare. I would wear long pants and good shoes. One can also walk along the road to and cross the river. Then cut directly up the hill to the rock. The approach is pretty miserable.