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Elevation: 7,446 ft 2,270 m
GPS: 35.69645, -105.68956
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,116 total · 51/month
Shared By: Miles Johnson on Sep 5, 2021
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

Description Suggest change

Brautigan sits waterside just a few hundred feet from the Windy Bridge Picnic Area.

He hosts a handful of easier problems and two stiffer ones in the overhung side.

Tokyo Montana Express sits in the trail side with a lenticular hueco on the face. Start on a LH Undercling under the roof and your RH on the slanted rail. Throw up to the sloping topout.

Trout Fishing In America starts matched on an obvious jug block in the dihedral that faces the picnic area. Establish on a good RF and work up on any available holds to topout when you can. Some beta is a grade harder than the easiest variation I found but enjoyable to do a second harder lap on.

Watermelon Sugar starts on the low right side if Brautigan’s face you see on the approach. Stand on a red flag rock beneath the boulder and just left of a big square block. Reach up and you should find solid starting holds for LH and RH. Stand on the rails in a slightly overhung starting position and work your way UP. The path of least resistance ventures left and becomes Trout Fishing In America. Use the sidepull Arete and then then the block Undercling to establish a technical stance on the face before finessing control of a barn-door to top out (or just explode past the barn door altogether).

If you have the wingspan, strength and skills to head rightward and up following the holds from the same start as Trout Fishing In America you can finish the Open Project, Haiku Ambulance, which starts the same but falls into thin 1/3 pad crimps and technical moves to gain a RH jug which will establish you to topout along the blunted corner of the boulder.

Under the overhung face is a definite strong line and undocumented Open Project listed as Sombrero Fallout. It is such a high quality problem I simultaneously can’t imagine it hasn’t been completed but also hasn’t been documented for the area since it will be the best boulder in the canyon on MP by most aesthetics, and popular style.

Getting There Suggest change

From Frankies in Pecos go 9.9 miles north in HWY 64. At the Windy Bridge Picnic Area pull into the parking lot and head past the picnic tables a few hundred feet. You can see Brautigan clearly on the approach and the trail leads within an arm’s length from Tokyo Montana Express. If you see Cathedral Rock you have gone too far.

5 Total Climbs

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Location: Windy Bridge - Brautigan Boulder Change
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