Stanley Headwall (Rock) Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 5,995 ft | 1,827 m |
| GPS: |
51.19031, -116.05672 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 8,981 total · 151/month | |
| Shared By: | Rhys Beaudry on Jul 27, 2021 | |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry |
Description
Originally an Ice/Mixed destination ( mountainproject.com/area/10…), Stanley Headwall is now home to a growing crag, a few multipitch lines, and almost unlimited potential for more. The massive rock face is a 300 m mostly vertical toe of Stanley Peak that runs NW/SE. The rock is absolutely immaculate; climbing is very technical/balancey.
The wall faces NE; it only gets sun in the morning. The crag is in a dip in the scree which offers limited protection from the wind; plan on having great climbing conditions, and cold-ish belays. There is a creek/waterfall less than 50 m from the crag; as you might expect, this means there will be rock fall from snow melt in early season (the glacier is up the valley).
Getting There
From the Trans-Canada, head South on the Radium Highway (93 South) and park at Stanley Glacier Trail. Take the well worn/maintained trail up following a couple of giant switch backs before generally contouring the creek once you have broken into the valley. Continue up the trail until there is a branch for a low-line trail with a sign indicating that the low-line is not the trail - take this. Contour across the scree, generally arcing to the right towards the drainage from the main waterfall - the crag is in the dip in the scree ~50 m to the right of the waterfall. If you aim for the erratic boulder and then head towards the drainage you should be able to locate cairns that mark the final approach trail.
You can also use the two arches on the face as land marks. The crag is left of both of the arches.
Budget an hour for the approach; it is long, but casual.
Classic Climbing Routes at Stanley Headwall (Rock)
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