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The Crucible Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Crucible

L › R R › L A › Z

	Blood Pact T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Centipede Daycare V2 5+
	Gimme Your Lunch Money ($273) T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Headhunter 3 Cops 0 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Juicy Foot AKA Finger Choppa V6 7A
	Left On Red T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Mamas Toe Jam V2+ 5+
	Officer 270s Hairy Bush (shave that shit) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Papas Fungi V-easy 3
	Protein Snakes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Something Spooky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Thisisfine.jpg T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Woodpeckers Lips T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
	Wrecking The Lambo V2 5+
	XENIA T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Youth Is Wasted On The Young T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
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Elevation:	2,166 ft
GPS:	34.74236, -98.52968 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	3,100 total · 84/month
Shared By:	Miles Johnson on Apr 13, 2021
Admins:	Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.

Description

The Crucible is a just 6-7 minutes downhill of Pirates Landing parking and has a protected hedge of trees around it to provide good shade and a nice wind block while you work the 5.11s Gimme Your Lunch Money and Blood Pact. There’s a jugfest 5.5 just a few steps north called Xenia and open finger crack and offwidth lines just down the crag yet to be done. Multiple highball boulders and lines exist for new problems. Good vibes in the alcove, good views of lake Lawtonka and Elmer Thomas and a mix of very hard lines and easier ones too.

Miles found these lines in April of 2020, cleaned them of choss flakes and loose chockstones and gave an initial wake up burn to Gimme. He showed them to Alex Mitchell and John Lozano on October 7th when the first burns of Blood Pact took place and not much was accomplished except a good dose of humility. 6 months and quite a few sessions later both 5.11s got their FFAs in late 2020 - spring 2021.

We’re stoked to finally share these climbs so please go check them out!

For TR anchors and rapping in, there is a convenient boulder to sling with 240-480 cm slings and a cedar tree to utilize for either end of a J-Tree style anchor using a static rope. Please do not rap down directly off this tree - a nice soft quad should be used if the tree is used at all. Anchors to Gimme Your Lunch Money and Blood Pact can be built on the boulder alone and simply re-oriented from south to east quickly. 25-35m of static line will allow a completely redundant BFK style anchor. Half of that length can be used for a simpler 2 strand anchor from the boulder alone.

Getting There

Park at Pirates Landing (first parking from the top of Mt Scott) and walk downhill 30-50’, turn left to the east and scramble down the talus to a grassy slope. Head east to where the boulders run in a downhill edge and follow SSE. After a few ledges downhill look east toward the south bankline of Lake Lawtonka and a bald large dome with large huecos facing skyward and a couple cedar trees will mark the topout of The Crucible which has climbing faces pointing south and east. To see the climbing faces you’ll have to pass the crag heading east.

Once you’ve found the dome with huecos on top the easiest scramble is south for 10-15 yards and then turn left and corkscrew down into The Crucible’s south face.

Coordinates: (34.7424145, -98.5297211)