PRINT: Rock Climbing in Sunbeam Wall, Southeast Utah

Sunbeam Wall

Utah > Southeast Utah > Grand County > Salt Valley

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.

Description

Sunbeam wall is actually the first climbable wall you come across (on your left) as you enter the area. It starts, like all of the rock, attached to the ground and then climbs up at a low grade angle. This wall comes directly before the Family Area.

Getting There

Sunbeam Wall can be reached by driving roads east from US 191. Probably the fastest way is from 191. Look for a good non-paved road heading east between mile markers 152 and 153. Drive about a mile, and then take a right immediately after crossing a small bridge. In another ~2 miles, take a right at a T-junction. From here start looking for Sunbeam wall, which comes in site on your left. It will be obvious on the left, and a road cuts off left to the base.

Routes from Left to Right

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 22 ● CaronaCation Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 13 ● Social Distancing Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 13 ● Sprang Brake Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 17 ● Stimulus Check Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 12 ● Vaccination Vacation Sport, TR

● CaronaCation

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport

● Social Distancing

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport, TR

● Sprang Brake

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR

● Stimulus Check

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR

● Vaccination Vacation

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR

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Sunbeam Wall

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Robert S
Driftwood, TX

If you climb here, be aware that there's some drama.

The guy who bolted these routes has some sketchy ethics, and the bolt placement is sometimes highly questionable given the rock quality, but the people downgrading these routes, often to 3rd Class, are putting their personal, well-justified views about the bolter above the safety of people who might come here, especially beginners and families.

They're going to get people hurt or killed just to spite some guy who has poor ethics. Please ignore their comments and grade "suggestions." Jun 23, 2022

Ireland Johnson

Tried taking my family out here to climb (beginners, 20M, 50M, 50F, above average fitness), since it’s really the closest place to Moab with easy access top ropes that aren’t jam packed with guides.

Grades are all over the place - set up a top rope on the supposed 5.5 - no one could make it past the 2nd bolt. The rock quality is piss poor - climbed up the first two bolts off rope - you can see where several holds broke. I can lead into the 5.10s - but there’s no way I would have chosen lead that. At least a 5.9 PG-13 at this point.

Skip this area and just go to Wall Street. Crowds, even though bothersome, and better than this. Oct 10, 2023

R G
Colorado Springs, CO

Ireland Johnson, it's a supposed 5.5 because (as the first comment states) people have been downgrading these routes, often to 3rd class. That specific route is a 5.9+ and possibly a 5.10 and the crux is between bolt 1 and 2. You should check our coronacation. I think you'd like it a lot but you might have to top belay. Oct 10, 2023

R G
Colorado Springs, CO

Maintenance Updated: March 27, 2024

If you are going to chop a route please make sure you chop it correctly, remove the entire bolt, fill in the holes, and camouflage it with the current wall. I understand you're doing what you believe is right and I respect that but please do it correctly. Apr 22, 2024

gary
Conifer, CO

Despite the drama, fun little crag in an area with free camping (which is getting rare around Moab) and at a place I can work from the base of the crag and do some self belay climbs. Thanks for persisting through the BS Sep 23, 2024