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South & West Faces (from Adamant or AusterityGlacier) Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in 3. South & West Faces (from Adamant or AusterityGlacier)

L › R R › L A › Z

	East Peak of the Gothics - South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1
	Iron Man- Gibson/Rohn T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Slinky Tassle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c A0
	South Buttress, Adamant Mountain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Stickle South Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1-2 Easy Snow
	West Buttress of the Horn T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R

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Elevation:	10,484 ft	3,196 m
GPS:	51.73467, -117.91558 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	4,930 total · 84/month
Shared By:	Robert Hall on Mar 25, 2021 · Updates
Admins:	Robert Hall, Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This area covers the massive rock walls that are the south and west faces of the Adamants (and also the north face of Blackfriars). Usually from a base camp on either the Adamant or Austerity glacier, although the I think climbs on the west faces of Horn and Ironman could, in theory, be done from the Fairy Meadow area with very early alpine starts and/or a bivi/ light “ high camp”

Interestingly enough, the first ascents of both Adamant and Austerity were accomplished from this direction, from a camp in the trees below the Sir Sandford glacier. Adamant by a snow couloir and Austerity by a route involving a snow couloir, snow ramp and the west ridge (Ironman-Austerity col). Today this col and ridge is usually gained from the north via the upper granite glacier. ( see Adamants North Slope \ Austerity \ Std Route, )

The routes are organized Left-to-Right as one would "see" them (as if they were all visible) from a camp on the Adamant Glacier or Austerity Glacier.

Getting There

Almost universally via helicopter from either Golden or Bush Harbor/River.

It is possible to hike up Swan Creek ( if the west-side of Columbia logging road is passable) to Fairy Meadow hut. Thence over Friendship Col and then Thor Pass down to the Adamant glacier. Also it MAY BE possible to go from Fariy Meadow over the Granite glacier to the Ironman-Horn col and the over and down this. Status of crevasses on this route is unknown.

In any event, try to avoid the middle of the Adamant glacier which is extremely flat...it becomes a swamp!