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Mount Chamberlin

California > High Sierra > 14 - Whitney & Surrou…
Warning Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year DetailsDrop down

Description

**13,173 ft (4,015 m)**

Mount Chamberlin is one of the best backcountry walls in the High Sierra. WIth rock on some routes rivaling the Incredible Hulk, if you love rock climbing on alpine granite and are willing to hike a bit to get there, Chamberlin is well worth a visit. There is pristine camping underneath at Crabtree Lakes, and you are sure to have the place to yourself.

Getting There

There are 2 main ways to get to the Crabtree Lakes basin and Mt. Chamberlin. Both involve getting a permit for the Whitney Trail, which might be the crux of the whole matter. Start at Whitney Portal. If heading directly for Chamberlin, the shortest approach is to take the Whitney Trail to Trail Crest and then cut cross-country directly down scree slopes into the Crabtree basin. ~12 miles, though keep in mind that while most of this approach is on one of the cushiest developed trails in the Sierra, the last part is on no trail at all.

Option 2: Do as above, but continue on the JMT down the other side of the crest into the Hitchcock Lakes basin. Continue past Guitar Lake. At Crabtree Ranger Station, leave the JMT and head up a much less developed trail into the Crabtree Lakes basin. ~17 miles, with ~5000 feet of vert overall. This is the best way if you're planning to climb routes on Hitchcock along the way. It's also the way I'd recommend hiking out, unless your idea of fun is schlepping up scree that slides with every footstep with a huge pack on your back.

Option 3: Come in over Cottonwood Pass, and head north on the PCT or take an off trail shortcut thru rock creek basin.  Much easier to get a permit for this, but the trek is even longer then the JMT over Whitney option.

Routes from Left to Right

5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 1
Asleep at the Wheel
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 12
The Sword in the Stone
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 1
Safety First
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1
Bean Pole
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Asleep at the Wheel
 1
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
The Sword in the Stone
 12
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Safety First
 1
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Bean Pole
 1
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The approach after climbing up and over the talus at the bottom of the last switchback on the main Whitney Trail.
[Hide Photo] The approach after climbing up and over the talus at the bottom of the last switchback on the main Whitney Trail.
First views of chamberlin coming down Crabtree pass
[Hide Photo] First views of chamberlin coming down Crabtree pass
The East, Central, and west buttresses of Mt. Chamberlain's north face at sunset.  the descent gully between chamberlain and crabtree crags is the obvious chute in the right of the image.
[Hide Photo] The East, Central, and west buttresses of Mt. Chamberlain's north face at sunset. the descent gully between chamberlain and crabtree crags is the obvious chute in the right of the image.
Chamberlin
[Hide Photo] Chamberlin
The many buttresses of Mt. Chamberlin. The buttresses are more distinct if viewed from farther left, but unless descending from Trail Crest it's not worthwhile to hike over there as it makes more sense to skip the lakeside scrambling and camp on the right
[Hide Photo] The many buttresses of Mt. Chamberlin. The buttresses are more distinct if viewed from farther left, but unless descending from Trail Crest it's not worthwhile to hike over there as it makes more s…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Vicki Schwantes
Sacramento, CA
[Hide Comment] To approach via the main Whitney Trail don't go all the way to Trail Crest. At the bottom of the last of the 99 switchbacks, climb up the talus being mindful of the consequential gully to the left. Once up you'll be on the broad sandy plateau to cross county to Chamberlin. I posted a photo. Jul 13, 2025