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Elevation: 6,682 ft 2,037 m
GPS: 35.97231, -115.52518
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 15,301 total · 328/month
Shared By: Darren S on Feb 7, 2021 · Updates
Admins: Luke EF, Justin Johnsen

Description Suggest change

This cliff is at 6500 feet and faces NNW. Most of the climbing is on walls that only see the sun for a few hours on the longest days of the year. For the rest of the year, the crag is shaded until close to sunset. When high temperatures in the city are in the mid 70s, this crag is cold enough to need to bring a warm jacket and pants. When high temperatures in town are 110, the approach can be hot, but once at the cliff temperatures are still decent for climbing.

The climbing: The area has routes that are up to 200 feet in length requiring close to 30 quick-draws for the longest ones. Significant effort was made to clean these routes of loose rock and dirt, however, due to their sheer size it is possible that there is still some loose and fragile rock in places. Helmets are advised for both climber and belayer and care should be taken when below someone who is climbing.

The longer routes sometimes have wider spacing between bolts than the shorter routes. This was an attempt to prevent rope drag from being an issue when climbing a full rope length. Savvy use of runners on the longer routes should also be considered when choosing to climb the longer offerings.

A 70m is the preferred length for your rope, as some routes require one for lowering off, but a 60m will work for many routes. Rope length suggestions have been given in the route lists as opposed to route length due to issues that might arise with inaccurate estimates.

Getting There Suggest change

To avoid any access issues, Please park in the big open area on the right just before the green electric/telephone box on the right. From the parking spot, head east into the obvious wash on the opposite side of the road. After about 100 yards pick up a faint trail exiting the wash on the left. From here the trail begins to become more obvious. (25 minutes with an empty pack - 45 minutes with a full pack). The trail gains 800 feet of elevation in 0.8 miles.

26 Total Climbs

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Location: Story Crag Main Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Story Crag Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 26
Autoimmune Protocol
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 60
Little Mochi
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 33
Eli's Passage
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
Hop On Pop Pop
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 42
Clem Fandango
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 32
Rocks Are My Friends
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 52
Kentucky Kid
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 23
Movin’ to Minnesota
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 18
Colt's Neck
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
Mrs. Purchase
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 16
Skipper the Eyechild
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 13
Twist of the Wrist
Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 8
Ray Purchase
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 17
Jack O'Neill
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 30
Newtonian Mechanics
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Autoimmune Protocol
 26
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Little Mochi
 60
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Eli's Passage
 33
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Hop On Pop Pop
 22
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Clem Fandango
 42
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Rocks Are My Friends
 32
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Kentucky Kid
 52
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Movin’ to Minnesota
 23
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Colt's Neck
 18
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Mrs. Purchase
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Skipper the Eyechild
 16
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Twist of the Wrist
 13
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 2 pitches
Ray Purchase
 8
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Jack O'Neill
 17
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Newtonian Mechanics
 30
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Story Crag Main Wall »

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