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Thelonious Monk

Oklahoma > Wichita Mountai… > Mt Scott > Jazz Workshop
Warning Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. DetailsDrop down

Description

Just a few steps north of Charles Mingus sits Thelonious Monk, a 50’ boulder running north-south with a striking crack running downhill to the north, where the athletic traverse One Foot In The Gutter begins. If you enjoy Gorilla Arms beside Steak Dinner Boulder, well carb up and come give this a go because it’s about twice as long. 

On the north end there is a raised disc to pinch or drag for your starting hold. Work left, south, and get into the crack.

Work the three distinct sections and fight off the pump somehow to end up on the obvious rock platform uphill at the south end!

Feet are sparse but key indeed.

Video of One Foot In the Gutter FA: youtu.be/rUGeueqr_-Q

Overhung problems Bluehawk and Caravan sit on the low north side. Harder lines exist but need strong folks to pull them.

Getting There

Park at LMS and head down to the crag. Follow the wall to the south for 270 yds and pass a talus slope with vines. Continue and notice the rock size increasing and features showing up. Follow the animal trails to a cave overhang and a ramp that leads to Thelonious Monk in 5’ and then 10’ south of that rock you will see The Jazz Workshop founder, Charles Mingus.

A more direct approach is to park at LMS and walk downhill to where the next guardrail starts. Count 7 posts and jump the rail. There should be a drainage culvert there. Scramble downhill and you should end up in the viney talus slope or just south of it. Continue south a few minutes and you will find The Jazz Workshop.

On either approach if you look east to the lake you will see a cove with a sandbar extending from its northern shore. If that northern shore is south of you, you are north of Mingus. If it is north of you you are south of Mingus. If it is directly even with you and mount scott you’re right there.

Routes from Left to Right

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bluehawk on the north face of Thelonious Monk boulder. This overhung north face is downhill from the 45' traverse crack on his east face. Yellow = Bluehawk. Pink = Touch Of Death (Way Of The Fang), Green = Death Touch Direct, Orange = Caravan
[Hide Photo] Bluehawk on the north face of Thelonious Monk boulder. This overhung north face is downhill from the 45' traverse crack on his east face. Yellow = Bluehawk. Pink = Touch Of Death (Way Of The Fang),…
The starting hold to One Foot In The Gutter sits on the north end of Thelonious Monk. Match hands and get on with it!
[Hide Photo] The starting hold to One Foot In The Gutter sits on the north end of Thelonious Monk. Match hands and get on with it!
Alex in the middle section of One Foot In The Gutter which is slightly overhung and quite barren for feet.
[Hide Photo] Alex in the middle section of One Foot In The Gutter which is slightly overhung and quite barren for feet.