PUBLIC LAND FOR SALE-Wayne’s World Climbing
Elevation: | 1,398 ft | 426 m |
GPS: |
47.43327, -121.63207 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 33,713 total · 616/month | |
Shared By: | High Mountain Gear on Dec 19, 2020 | |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Wayne's World encompasses 4 dry-tooling specific crags, Excellent Adventure Wall, Wayne's World, Darkside, and Erikland. The fruits of our labor have already paid dividends to those who have spent a few days or months here training and making their way from alpine axes to figure 4's. The crags offer a wide range of excellent beginner, intermediate, and harder climbs. All routes are thousands of dollars of stainless hardware donated by the community since 12/2019 with hundreds of bolts, chain, and various other fixed equipment. All routes are truly worthy of your time! If this is your first foray into the area, here's a synopsis of routes in difficulty and style.
First, rock shoes and tools are super fun. Mountain boots with monopoint crampons are advised, and sometimes add or reduce difficulty over shoes. Dual point/mountaineering crampons can be used at Excellent Adventure Wall since the holds are so big, but the other walls it is actually a hindrance and to be avoided.
True beginners who want an easy start in learning pick and crampon feel, Excellent Adventure Wall is THE place to start with huge holds but still requires pulling on your tools. Jenn's Inflatable Funhouse D3+ is very clean, and has a lot of hand holds for you to depump. Seam Reaper is the best D5 of all the crags, offers torques, steins, and locker placements at the top. Moves Like Dave climbs better than it looks, and doing all three routes will get you started and knowing what to look for. Following that, Wayne's World's Schwing Left, Party On Wayne, The Aspirant, and Psycho Hose Beast are a little more difficult but showcase more of what you will find in mountain terrain with natural, sometimes smaller holds and few hand holds. Jiji's Chimney is in the same grade range, but it is spooky and strenuous in crampons. It is a great training climb and if you want to experience the wide. You get turf sticks and root hooks for a glorious top out!
Most competent 5.9-11 climbers will gravitate towards TR laps on the main wall. Mega classics like Painted Ruins, alter ego Party TIme! Excellent!, and a bit harder Highstepping for Jesus are great stepping stones for those looking to lean back and climb the tools. The more cryptic and beta specific climbs like Republican Jesus, Cold Therapy, and Social Distancing have powerful and longer sequences and are very rewarding.
Tom's two routes Imperial March and Quarantine are the hardest climbs at the crag, and IM has a mandatory figure 4 at the crux. If neither of these climbs has you whipping into the air, head to Roadhouse! Schwing Right is a good start for hard climbing in a short span at the beginning.
Darkside is not as popular as the other two crags, but with the new seating area and log bench we expect it will see more traffic. Mainly the regulars move over here to try some different climbs and see more variety. There are 5 short climbs with 5-6 clips each that are actually super fun and a great place to try hard moves without getting totally wiped out. Chewbaccerotica (technically Wayne's World) Dingleberries Of Eden, Vader Built My Hotrod, and It's A Trap! are all steep and despite being short are incredibly fun, and you can talk and work on technique. Log Ride! is a nifty and unique route that actually climbs the leaning overhanging cedar at the top while swinging into the tree!!! Republican Jesus and Pina Coladas With Palpatine are two routes with a similar style. Not so steep, but technical hold finding gives a lot smiles.
That's about it! Find TR access info on the Klettersteig 3rd Class route to set up any route at the three crags.
We hope you enjoy our work! Please be kind and courteous to everyone you see there, we want everyone to feel welcome.
Kyle Willis
Classic Climbing Routes at PUBLIC LAND FOR SALE-Wayne’s World
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