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Elevation: 957 ft 292 m
GPS: 39.61061, -77.43567
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 31,985 total · 584/month
Shared By: Ed Bollack on Dec 12, 2020
Admins: Frances Fierst, C S

Description Suggest change

Thurmont Watershed Rock (TWS) is located in the Thurmont Watershed just minutes from the town of Thurmont MD. The 300+ acres of the watershed are tucked into the North East side of Cunningham Falls State Park. The rock is an easy 20 minute walk from the trailhead and is great for top roping, some lead climbing, and bouldering. With few exceptions the rock is clean and solid with some routes as tall as 42 feet. Horizontal bedded quartzite provides a great variety of hand and foot holds. Some faces are textured and full of holds, other have a slick bulletproof quartz surface. There are also a variety roofs, bulges, and overhanging starts to provide plenty of challenges. The general trend of the wall is NW to SE meaning there is plenty of sun for fall and winter climbing. Large Oaks stand on the hill in front of the cliff provide some summertime shade. Over 50 climbs have been established at this time.

I’ve been told that others have climbed here in the past. I suspect most early climbs were the pretty, hard, and clean routes. There are some real gems. When we explored the area we found little sign of the earlier climbers. The top and bottom of the walls were generally littered with years of deadfall. Some walls were covered by a heavy layer of lichen. Every outcrop we climbed required us to clear quite a bit of loose, sometimes dangerously large blocks. The rock on the routes is quite solid now but we suggest wearing helmets and keeping gear, rope, and the belayer out of the fall line incase you find something loose that we missed.

If you climbed a route previously and want the FA recorded or a different name for the climb just let me know and I’ll update as necessary. I’d also be interested in any early history since climbing has been going on in the Catoctin Mountains since the 1940’s. It’s possible this rock has been discovered and forgotten multiple times over the decades.

Getting There Suggest change

Since the development of this area the trails have become more defined and should be easier to follow.  The second stream crossing for the west side trail is no longer needed. The west side trail can be picked up on the other side of the trail.  Directions below have been updated. 

Several small Cairns (stack of rocks) were placed on both the east and west trails to help new visitors spot the trail or turns.  Please do not add more, make them bigger, or kick them over. What's there is fine. In addition, when expecting friends to follow you please do not stack rocks, or make huge log arrows, etc in the fire road to mark the turn.  The Thurmont Police use the road to reach the gun range and DNR police use it to patrol the area.  Please don't piss them off by blocking the road.

Follow the fire road past the red gate for 10-15 minutes, 0.6 mi. The trail will pass some private property and a water utility building on the right after about 10 minutes. From there the fire road climbs steeply then levels off. A stream is visible downhill to the right. Continue on a few more minutes until the fire road reaches and parallels the stream just 15 feet behind a low rock embankment. Look for the small cairn on the right. It is frequently kicked over so don't expect much but the trail is visible if you are looking for it. The trail immediately crosses the stream with some steppingstones. Thirty feet further on you'll reach the junction of the east and west side trails. In the fall and winter the cliffs are visible up on the hill.

Two trails go to the rock. The East Side Tr goes to Ed Rocks, Roof Arete, and Bouldering Pit. Continue forward at the east west junction. Head uphill a short distance until an old road grade is reached. Continue up and right on the old road grade until a large rock (3x3x3) on the left is reached. Turn left uphill the last 100 feet to the right side of the main wall.

If you continue following the old road you will reach the boulder field, this is the Bouldering Pit Path. The road ends here. Cross the rocky hillside. The Bouldering Pit should be visible ahead and to the left depending on your path thru the rock field.  Other boulder are also in this area

To access the West Side, Pinnacle Rock / 4 Aretes areas, use the West Side Tr. Take the left fork in the trail after crossing the stream.  About 70 further the trail hooks right and continues up the hill. Look for a shallow dry drainage that heads toward Pyramid Rock clearly visible uphill once you are thru the thicker foliage.

The Base Trail traverses the various outcrops from the Pinnacle on the left end to the Ed Rocks on the right end. It only takes a few minutes to walk past all outcrops from end to end. It’s also easy to continue east over the top of the boulder field to reach the Choss Rocks area and the Bouldering Pit. The hillside is generally leaf covered loose rock so the 3 trails are best way to move around.

84 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at TWS Rocks -

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 6
Awe at all Angles
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 8
Vagabond Arete
TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 7
So Much Fun
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
Two Fisted Jam
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Divya’s Green Catastrophe
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 18
Quarantine Crack
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
Autumn Splendor
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Illuminating Lichen
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
Captive Corner
TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 7
Tombstone
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Glass Sliders
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Steam Engine
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Counterpoise
TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
One Shot
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Awe at all Angles 1 The Bouldering Pit
 6
V1 5 Boulder
Vagabond Arete 2 Ed Rocks
 8
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
So Much Fun 2 Ed Rocks
 7
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
Two Fisted Jam 6 Four Aretes
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Divya’s Green Catastrophe 2 Ed Rocks
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Quarantine Crack 2 Ed Rocks
 18
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Autumn Splendor 2 Ed Rocks
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Illuminating Lichen 2 Ed Rocks
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Captive Corner 3 The Roof Arete
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Tombstone 2 Ed Rocks
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Glass Sliders 3 The Roof Arete
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Steam Engine 2 Ed Rocks
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Counterpoise 2 Ed Rocks
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
One Shot 3 The Roof Arete
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c TR
More Classic Climbs in TWS Rocks - »

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