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Mermaid Buttress
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> Calico Basin
> Red Spring
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There
are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The
Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations:
Black Velvet Canyon,
The Hamlet,
Kraft Mountain Area,
The Gallery, and
The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
This Buttress is North Facing but low angle enough to receive some late morning sun into the fall. In the summer it surely bakes and in the winter it gets very little sun. It can, however, be relatively protected from a S/SW wind.
It's also worth noting, climbing this buttress puts you within a very short walk of Physical Graffiti, and may be a fun alternative to the regular approach to Riding Hood wall.
Getting There
Approach from Calico Basin Road towards Ranch Hands crag. At the Apron of Ranch Hands crag, and the base of Roman Hands (5.4), continue West, passing two gullies. Mermaid Buttress is just past the second Gully. It is a tiered buttress, somewhat resembling a Mermaid. If you have reached Existential Crag you have gone too far. Also, see picture below.
Routes from Left to Right
| Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
|
●
Inclusive AF
|
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trad 2 pitches
|
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