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Dorado Needle

Washington > Northwest Region > Hwy 20 & N Casc… > N Cascades > Eldorado Peak

Description

The Dorado Needle is a high rock spire on the Eldorado ridge. It is frequently climbed as a separate destination, with several long multipitch trad routes up to 5.10 on generally good rock. It also includes a simple glacier climb with an easy one-pitch rock summit; the dichotomy is part of what leads to its popularity. The position and alpine setting make this a wonderful destination.

Getting There

Approach as for Eldorado Peak, but move from the Inspiration Glacier onto the McAllester Glacier to reach the Dorado Needle.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Easy Snow
 16
● Southwest Buttress
Trad, Snow, Alpine 9 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1
● Direct Southwest Buttress
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 11
● East Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow
 32
● Northwest Ridge
Trad, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Southwest Buttress
 16
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine 9 pitches
● Direct Southwest Buttress
 1
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
● East Ridge
 11
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine
● Northwest Ridge
 32
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

On the McAllister Glacier, head to a point slightly northwest of Dorado Needle
[Hide Photo] On the McAllister Glacier, head to a point slightly northwest of Dorado Needle