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Red Rock Main Area

Massachusetts > N Shore > Cape Ann > Redrocks & Vicinity

Description

This granite wall arguably offers the best toproping in eastern MA. There is one true classic (Zipper), several excellent slab climbs, and some decent crack climbs. All the routes have bolted toprope anchors.

Though there a few bolted lines here and there, please avoid bolting established lines. There is a long history of climbing in this area, and if you look closely, you will find the scars of the bolts wars.

Getting There

From the main parking area, follow the obvious trail along Route 128 until it turns sharply uphill at the Pink Floyd Wall. Make a right and continue up to the main area.

This is popular hiking/dog walking trail, and there is a nice view of Cape Ann from the top of what is known as Hardy Mountain.

Routes from Left to Right

V1 5
 2
● Frosty The Boulder
Boulder
V1+ 5
 1
● Y - Boulder
Boulder
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
● Scotty Bones
TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 50
● Roll the Bones
Sport, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 4
● Wings of Steal
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 2
● Seappage
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
● Stonehenge Slab
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 39
● Chimney
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 28
● Excuse Me
Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 12
● Why Me?
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 43
● High Me
Trad, TR
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 3
● Offwidth
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 5
● Swayback
Trad, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
 63
● Zits
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 57
● Morning Glory
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 74
● Steps
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 2
● Steps Direct
TR
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 2
● No Steps
TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 4
● Black Streak
TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
 2
● Andromeda
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 212
● Zipper
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 16
● The Plank
Trad, TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 1
● Velcro
Trad, TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 24
● Laughing Gull
Sport, TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 2
● Broken Ankle
Sport, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 1
● Midnight Train
TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 5
● Ray's Picture
Trad, Sport, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 92
● Toe Jams
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 8
● Happy Feet
Sport
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 30
● The Wizard's Hat
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
● No Bolt
TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 1
● Wink Van Ripple
TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 48
● Rip Van Winkle
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 11
● Slip Van Winkle
Sport, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V3 6A
 4
● Hole in One
TR, Boulder
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 4
● Slab n' Jab
Trad, TR
V1+ 5
 7
● The Hobo's Chimney
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Frosty The Boulder
 2
V1 5 Boulder
● Y - Boulder
 1
V1+ 5 Boulder
● Scotty Bones
 2
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
● Roll the Bones
 50
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport, TR
● Wings of Steal
 4
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad
● Seappage
 2
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, TR
● Stonehenge Slab
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● Chimney
 39
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
● Excuse Me
 28
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
● Why Me?
 12
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b TR
● High Me
 43
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, TR
● Offwidth
 3
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad, TR
● Swayback
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad, TR
● Zits
 63
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 Sport
● Morning Glory
 57
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
● Steps
 74
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Steps Direct
 2
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b TR
● No Steps
 2
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b TR
● Black Streak
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a TR
● Andromeda
 2
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad, TR
● Zipper
 212
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
● The Plank
 16
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● Velcro
 1
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, TR
● Laughing Gull
 24
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
● Broken Ankle
 2
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
● Midnight Train
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c TR
● Ray's Picture
 5
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Sport, TR
● Toe Jams
 92
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
● Happy Feet
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
● The Wizard's Hat
 30
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
● No Bolt
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
● Wink Van Ripple
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c TR
● Rip Van Winkle
 48
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
● Slip Van Winkle
 11
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, TR
● Hole in One
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V3 6A TR, Boulder
● Slab n' Jab
 4
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, TR
● The Hobo's Chimney
 7
V1+ 5 Boulder

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Red Rock Main Area, with Zipper just right of center.
[Hide Photo] Red Rock Main Area, with Zipper just right of center.