To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Lower Musucheon
International
> Asia
> S Korea
> Jeju Island
Description
Easy to moderate climbing on fun, featured rock. Vertical climbing and playful moves make this a very enjoyable crag
Getting There
Park on the side of the riverbed. There is a short concrete staircase that leads down to the riverbed. Once at the bottom of the stairs, head to the right for about 150 meters until you come to the climbing.
[Hide Comment] First off, a bus will get you to within a short walk of the gate leading down to the riverbed. No need to worry about a car. From Jeju city, take a bus to the pyeonghwaro rest area. If you use naver or kakao maps, you can see the river clearly next to the bus stop close by. You can also just search for Musucheon and it should come up. Walk across the bridge and turn right at the road running along the east side of the creek (Musucheon-gil). It has a green iron fence running along the side of it. Follow it for 5 minutes until you see a gate next to a pull off on the right. Go through the gate and walk down the concrete steps to the riverbed.
If you're using Koreaontherocks.com or the crag (both of which have much more info than mountain project), they confusingly tell you to "turn south" when you hit the riverbed after walking down the concrete stairs? This is not correct. You take a left (north) and follow the riverbed until you get to the main wall, which is not the wall in the picture on this page so don't let that confuse you either. There is climbing if you go south on the creek (upper Musucheon?) near the natural bridge. But you can't access it from that side of the road. You have to walk out of the riverbed, cross the main road, and go back down on the other side.
It's possible we missed a small section of wall that has the routes in the picture attached to this page? We never saw that. Not sure how we would have missed it though because we spent two days here and walked the length of the gorge, stopping to look at any bolts we saw. Regardless, whatever that is, it's definitely not the "main wall". The main wall is found maybe 150 meters down the creek bed after you reach the bottom of the concrete steps. A large obvious amphitheater will be seen on your left covered in bolts. Continuing from here, both sides of the riverbed have routes scattered throughout for another 200 meters give or take.
The bulk of the climbing we found (~30 routes) is on the short side, steep, and powerful; not "enjoyable playful climbing on featured rock" as mentioned above. Again, it's possible we missed some small section of rock they climbed. We definitely didn't climb everything. But there didn't seem to be much of that kind of climbing anywhere. Most of the grades fall in the .11-.12 range. The handful of moderates we found were pretty tricky. Maybe a stiff .9+ or two but mostly in the mid .10 range. That being said, there are a handful of really nice looking harder routes here. The first route on the left when you first hit the amphitheater is a very clean looking .12a. There is a .10b bolted crack on the right side of the same amphitheater that is also very fun if you're solid on jamming. Farther down on the left side of the gorge is a section of dark basalt that has some really nice lines. One in particular was the incipient crack system to the right of the arete. Maybe .11+? Powerful, intricate and stays on you from ground to anchor.
In terms of gear, there are a couple of short trad lines that look worth doing. There's one really nice looking finger crack on the left side of the amphitheater right next to the first .12a route mentioned above. There was no info online about it but there is chalk in it, anchors at the top, and it looks very good. Probably in the .11 range? Not that tall but definitely worth doing if that's your thing. Maybe a single rack from .3 - 1 BD will do? Extra finger sizes would help.
We'll post some of the pictures we took, but in general if you're coming to climb here, there just isn't a lot of reliable information online. Use whatever you can find on Koreaontherocks.com and the crag, plan some time to do some exploring and wade through some choss, and jump on whatever looks fun to you. Keep the expectations low and some of the routes will leave you pleasantly surprised. The creek is also a beautiful place to spend a day regardless of the climbing. We came in winter but if you're making a summer trip, there is some definite swimming hole potential down there for an afternoon siesta. Enjoy!
Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Florissant, CO
If you're using Koreaontherocks.com or the crag (both of which have much more info than mountain project), they confusingly tell you to "turn south" when you hit the riverbed after walking down the concrete stairs? This is not correct. You take a left (north) and follow the riverbed until you get to the main wall, which is not the wall in the picture on this page so don't let that confuse you either. There is climbing if you go south on the creek (upper Musucheon?) near the natural bridge. But you can't access it from that side of the road. You have to walk out of the riverbed, cross the main road, and go back down on the other side.
It's possible we missed a small section of wall that has the routes in the picture attached to this page? We never saw that. Not sure how we would have missed it though because we spent two days here and walked the length of the gorge, stopping to look at any bolts we saw. Regardless, whatever that is, it's definitely not the "main wall". The main wall is found maybe 150 meters down the creek bed after you reach the bottom of the concrete steps. A large obvious amphitheater will be seen on your left covered in bolts. Continuing from here, both sides of the riverbed have routes scattered throughout for another 200 meters give or take.
The bulk of the climbing we found (~30 routes) is on the short side, steep, and powerful; not "enjoyable playful climbing on featured rock" as mentioned above. Again, it's possible we missed some small section of rock they climbed. We definitely didn't climb everything. But there didn't seem to be much of that kind of climbing anywhere. Most of the grades fall in the .11-.12 range. The handful of moderates we found were pretty tricky. Maybe a stiff .9+ or two but mostly in the mid .10 range. That being said, there are a handful of really nice looking harder routes here. The first route on the left when you first hit the amphitheater is a very clean looking .12a. There is a .10b bolted crack on the right side of the same amphitheater that is also very fun if you're solid on jamming. Farther down on the left side of the gorge is a section of dark basalt that has some really nice lines. One in particular was the incipient crack system to the right of the arete. Maybe .11+? Powerful, intricate and stays on you from ground to anchor.
In terms of gear, there are a couple of short trad lines that look worth doing. There's one really nice looking finger crack on the left side of the amphitheater right next to the first .12a route mentioned above. There was no info online about it but there is chalk in it, anchors at the top, and it looks very good. Probably in the .11 range? Not that tall but definitely worth doing if that's your thing. Maybe a single rack from .3 - 1 BD will do? Extra finger sizes would help.
We'll post some of the pictures we took, but in general if you're coming to climb here, there just isn't a lot of reliable information online. Use whatever you can find on Koreaontherocks.com and the crag, plan some time to do some exploring and wade through some choss, and jump on whatever looks fun to you. Keep the expectations low and some of the routes will leave you pleasantly surprised. The creek is also a beautiful place to spend a day regardless of the climbing. We came in winter but if you're making a summer trip, there is some definite swimming hole potential down there for an afternoon siesta. Enjoy!
Helpful Links:
thecrag.com/ko/climbing/sou…
koreaontherocks.com/climbin…
s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/… Feb 12, 2021