Elevation: 6,102 ft
GPS: 60.05, -134.728 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 391 total · 24/month
Shared By: Geneviève Favreau on Sep 16, 2020
Admins: Braden Batsford

Description

The saw-blade like Matheson ridge and its peak offers a great day of technical climbing and down-climbing, great exposure and a 20m rappel/trad climb.

Getting There

Matheson ridge and its peak are part of a complex ridge system on the Montana Massif. The approach via Montana road was the obvious one until the summer 2020 Montana road closure partway up. An alternative approach is via the Dail peak hike described on Yukon Hiking ( https://yukonhiking.ca/f0KBTd/dail_peak.html).

In June 2020, we attempted this objective from our campsite at the alpine lake below the Montana ridge (yukonhiking.ca/montana.html ). The approach up the Montana ridge involved walking up a snow slope (crampons may be nice to have). Photos of the view of Matheson ridge and peak from Montana are shared below and may help visualize where to go from the Dail peak approach. On September 5th 2020, we hiked in from the Dail peak approach (note that it's handy to put a waypoint where the trail intersects with the ATV road on your approach for an easy return) and instead of climbing up to Dail peak, we cut across the valley to the opposite ridge line. This ridge line connects to the Matheson ridge (if it's not officially called Matheson ridge already). We descended a scree slope and camped at the highest alpine lake we found. Winds can be absurdly strong out there and the best tent could get a beating - check the forecast! 

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