All Locations > Oregon > Southwest Oregon > Little River Crags > Chickenhead Ranch

Chickenhead Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Chickenhead Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	2nd Chickenhead Arete TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Black Chimney T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Cauliflower Ear TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Chickenhead Chimney TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Chickenhead Deluxe TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Chickenhead Ranch TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ear Canal TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	First Chickenhead Arete TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Madrone Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Nashville Warbler, The TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Nest Egg TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Outer Ear TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Superior Chickenheads TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Waterfall Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Elevation:	2,285 ft	696 m
GPS:	43.2588, -122.99369 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	4,704 total · 64/month
Shared By:	Brian Oelberg on Aug 27, 2020
Admins:	Winston Mueller, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Toprope access to a dozen routes: two chimneys and several face/arete climbs. 5.8 - 5.9 climbs. None have been bolted as sport routes, toprope setup is easy. To lead them ground up, you can sling the chickenheads. The lower walls are very mossy but cleans up from the ledges about 30' up.

The climbs in the middle of the cliff between the Chickenhead Chimney and the Madrone Chimney all have anchors located on a hidden bench accessed by a narrow slot that leads through mountain mahogany bush down to a large douglas fir. The ledge is just wide enough to navigate without a rope through some small madrone trees and bushes. The first anchor is for Madrone Chimney and as you move north along the ledge you will find anchors for the other face climbs and anchors on top of the Chickenhead Chimney.

Getting There

Top formation above three unclimbed spires. Easy toprope setup, approach from climber's left. A dozen moderate face routes and a couple three chimneys are possible.