Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 1,778 ft
GPS: 37.79566, -81.14446
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 13,505 total · 306/month
Shared By: Pnelson on Aug 13, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson

Description Suggest change

The Piney Creek Gorge is located in Beckley, WV, just 30 minutes south of the NRG, and features cliffs up to 100 feet in height. Although there are pockets of sandstone here on par with the best Nuttall in the NRG, it tends to deteriorate around 70 feet.  Some sandstone here is a bit softer, eroding into incredibly organic features: iron bands and pockets that would be more typical of the Red River Gorge or Chattanooga area than the NRG.  This softer rock also means more moderate and concentrated climbing, especially around the newly developed Piney Creek Crag.  WARNING: this is an area of new and active development, with some loose rock; helmets are highly recommended!  

Although regional climbers have been scratching the surface of Piney Creek for years, in the summer of 2020 Mitch Lehman began strategic development of the area as a part of an Americorps project, establishing the first sport climbs in area. The goal of this project was to create a beginner friendly climbing area with moderate offerings for students in the WVU Tech Adventure Recreation major to use as part of their program. There is a ground level teaching anchors station with two sets of anchors and rap rings, which is a great resource for school groups and beginner climbers.

The development potential within the Piney Creek Gorge and Beckley Area is prime for anyone looking to gain experience before stepping it up to the big leagues in the New River Gorge region.  There is available equipment for anyone who wishes to develop in the region, please contact Mitch Lehman or NRAC for more information.  Please be respectful of private property and practice leave no trace ethics.  

Getting There Suggest change

Find YMCA drive on google maps, continue straight down the road past all of the soccer fields to the end where there are some dirt parking spots on your left, sometimes the gate is open for the regular paved parking lot on the right, but  you can also park in front of the green gate if it is closed. 


Approach: From the parking area, walk down the gravel path past the single cable gate until you see a park bench and signs for the Grays Flats trail North, take a left on Gray Flats Trail North. After walking 2 minutes on the Gray Flats Trail North you'll see a house sized boulder on your right, continue left on the the path for about two minutes until you reach a split. There is a sign for the Piney Bluff Trail on your right, take this trail for 8-10 minutes. You’ll come to a trail split with a sign for the soccer complex and piney bluff trail, take the right trail, immediately after making the right split, turn right into the woods just after two large trees, this is the entrance for the Piney Creek Crag climbing trail. If you walk too far, then you'll end up at the Piney Point Overlook, a worthy detour offering panoramic views of the Piney Creek Gorge. After dropping down the break in the cliff, walk climbers right for 5 minutes along the cliff until you come to warped wall, all the routes are right of here.

21 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Piney Creek Watershed Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Piney Creek Watershed

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 12
Taylormade
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 12
Newt Route
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 16
Iron Broccoli
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
Landspout
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Left of Death
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Romarête
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Dead Tree Society
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Metamorph
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Fart Exhibit
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
What's Kraken?
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 7
Boogie Shoes
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 9
Krakengard
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
Boogie Choose
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Hafgufa
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 4
Lehman Leftovers
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Taylormade
 12
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Newt Route
 12
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Iron Broccoli
 16
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Landspout
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Left of Death
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Romarête
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Dead Tree Society
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Metamorph
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Fart Exhibit
 9
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
What's Kraken?
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Boogie Shoes
 7
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
Krakengard
 9
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Boogie Choose
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Hafgufa
 5
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Lehman Leftovers
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Piney Creek Watershed »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments