Piney Creek Watershed Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 1,778 ft |
GPS: |
37.79566, -81.14446 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 13,505 total · 306/month |
Shared By: | Pnelson on Aug 13, 2020 · Updates |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
Description
The Piney Creek Gorge is located in Beckley, WV, just 30 minutes south of the NRG, and features cliffs up to 100 feet in height. Although there are pockets of sandstone here on par with the best Nuttall in the NRG, it tends to deteriorate around 70 feet. Some sandstone here is a bit softer, eroding into incredibly organic features: iron bands and pockets that would be more typical of the Red River Gorge or Chattanooga area than the NRG. This softer rock also means more moderate and concentrated climbing, especially around the newly developed Piney Creek Crag. WARNING: this is an area of new and active development, with some loose rock; helmets are highly recommended!
Although regional climbers have been scratching the surface of Piney Creek for years, in the summer of 2020 Mitch Lehman began strategic development of the area as a part of an Americorps project, establishing the first sport climbs in area. The goal of this project was to create a beginner friendly climbing area with moderate offerings for students in the WVU Tech Adventure Recreation major to use as part of their program. There is a ground level teaching anchors station with two sets of anchors and rap rings, which is a great resource for school groups and beginner climbers.
The development potential within the Piney Creek Gorge and Beckley Area is prime for anyone looking to gain experience before stepping it up to the big leagues in the New River Gorge region. There is available equipment for anyone who wishes to develop in the region, please contact Mitch Lehman or NRAC for more information. Please be respectful of private property and practice leave no trace ethics.
Getting There
Find YMCA drive on google maps, continue straight down the road past all of the soccer fields to the end where there are some dirt parking spots on your left, sometimes the gate is open for the regular paved parking lot on the right, but you can also park in front of the green gate if it is closed.
Approach: From the parking area, walk down the gravel path past the single cable gate until you see a park bench and signs for the Grays Flats trail North, take a left on Gray Flats Trail North. After walking 2 minutes on the Gray Flats Trail North you'll see a house sized boulder on your right, continue left on the the path for about two minutes until you reach a split. There is a sign for the Piney Bluff Trail on your right, take this trail for 8-10 minutes. You’ll come to a trail split with a sign for the soccer complex and piney bluff trail, take the right trail, immediately after making the right split, turn right into the woods just after two large trees, this is the entrance for the Piney Creek Crag climbing trail. If you walk too far, then you'll end up at the Piney Point Overlook, a worthy detour offering panoramic views of the Piney Creek Gorge. After dropping down the break in the cliff, walk climbers right for 5 minutes along the cliff until you come to warped wall, all the routes are right of here.
Classic Climbing Routes at Piney Creek Watershed
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