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Oku-no-oku Area Rock Climbing
Routes in Oku-no-oku Area
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Gin-no-Ono (Silver Axe) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kin-no-ono (Gold Axe) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kurogane (Black Iron) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shinpin (Brand New) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shunmin Slab (Deep Sleep Slab) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Elevation: | 4,896 ft |
| GPS: |
36.15205, 138.31411 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 1,527 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Christian Storms on Aug 2, 2020 |
| Admins: | Christian Storms |
Description
Sakushiga is mainly sport climbing crag with a few NP cracks near Saku-shi in Nagano. It's about a 2 hours and 45 minutes drive from Shinagawa in Tokyo. It's about 40 minutes from Karuizawa and Udea as well. The rock is tuff also known as volcanic tuff. It's called "gyoukaigan" 凝灰岩 in Japanese. The climbing season is all-year round but winters can be too cold. There are lots of bugs in summer so most spring and fall are best. The Oku-no-oku Area has 20 routes divided into three areas: Left Area, Center Area and Right Area. The climbs range from 5.8 to 5.12b.
Getting There
GPS for the check-in, bathroom and parking lot are: 36,15,14 N, 138,31,41E Elevation is 760 meters. Google map is here: goo.gl/maps/YMEhbUkqhakXU7X3A
The closest landmark is the old, abandoned elementary school. Google Map is here: maps.app.goo.gl/Cyte5SkRBby… As you head East on Route 44, you'll turn left at the old school. From here, drive straight. As the road bends left, take the small road on the right that heads up along farmland. Drive about 300 meters. You'll see a lake on your right and a cemetery on your left. There are up to 80 parking spaces with several parking areas with the closest access points to the seven different areas. After driving 300 meters, you'll find a portable toilet, pre-hub building and parking for about 4 cars. This is the check in area. You have to fill out the form on an envelope including the date, your name, license plate number and number in your party. It is 1000 yen per person or 500 yen if you are a JFA (Japan Free Climbing Association) member. Details in Japanese on membership are: freeclimb.jp The approach to all areas is under ten minutes.
The closest landmark is the old, abandoned elementary school. Google Map is here: maps.app.goo.gl/Cyte5SkRBby… As you head East on Route 44, you'll turn left at the old school. From here, drive straight. As the road bends left, take the small road on the right that heads up along farmland. Drive about 300 meters. You'll see a lake on your right and a cemetery on your left. There are up to 80 parking spaces with several parking areas with the closest access points to the seven different areas. After driving 300 meters, you'll find a portable toilet, pre-hub building and parking for about 4 cars. This is the check in area. You have to fill out the form on an envelope including the date, your name, license plate number and number in your party. It is 1000 yen per person or 500 yen if you are a JFA (Japan Free Climbing Association) member. Details in Japanese on membership are: freeclimb.jp The approach to all areas is under ten minutes.
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