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Pygmy Pillars

California > Sonora Pass Hig… > Upper Highway 108 > Columns of the Giants

Description

Columnar basalt pillars further down the talus field from Hexcentric. Climbs range from 5.6-5.9. Climbing here is a bit dirty. All anchors are natural (no bolts) with a walk-off on climbers right. Be careful not to knock loose blocks off when topping out. This area is north facing so gets shade all day. Pretty secluded, I doubt you’ll ever see people on these.

Getting There

Cross the bridge and head East along the creek to the end of the talus field (there will be a small crest), then head up. You’ll see the area on your left as you reach the top of the crest.

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
● Tinker’s Trough
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
● Common Kurt-esy
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
● Micro Soft
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
● Spread Sheet
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 6
● Excel Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
● Word
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Tinker’s Trough
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Common Kurt-esy
 5
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Micro Soft
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Spread Sheet
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Excel Crack
 6
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
● Word
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Afternoon cragging
[Hide Photo] Afternoon cragging
L to R: Tinker's Trough 5.7, Common Kurt-esy 5.7, Micro Soft 5.8, Spread Sheet 5.9, Excel Crack 5.6, Word 5.7. Walk off to the right
[Hide Photo] L to R: Tinker's Trough 5.7, Common Kurt-esy 5.7, Micro Soft 5.8, Spread Sheet 5.9, Excel Crack 5.6, Word 5.7. Walk off to the right
Pygmy Pillars as seen from the dirt parking of the walk-in campground just upstream of the Column of the Giants parking. It can be approached during low water by boulder hopping the river near the back of the camping instead of using the pedestrian bridge
[Hide Photo] Pygmy Pillars as seen from the dirt parking of the walk-in campground just upstream of the Column of the Giants parking. It can be approached during low water by boulder hopping the river near the…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ricky Harline
Angel's Camp, CA
[Hide Comment] I highly recommend Brad Young's Sonora Pass Highway guidebook for beta on this crag and numerous others, most of which are not on mountain project. The guidebook lists a total of six climbs here as well as good approach info and GPS coordinates.

The Sonora Pass isn't popular so I rarely see anyone even at so called "popular crags." A small rock without too many routes you can usually have to yourself even on holiday weekends. Jul 24, 2020
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
[Hide Comment] On the approach avoid the talus as much as possible, staying as close to the river as possible. When you hit the burned meadow after the talus recedes to the right (south) hike until you see a narrow gully guarded by boulders and downed trees. Hike the gully to the top and you will see the pillars. Oct 17, 2022
Mike Toffey
Yosemite/Lone Pine, CA
[Hide Comment] Super underrated crag! I loved almost every single climb here and encountered zero loose rock. About 1000x better than the rock and climbs on Hexentric down the way. May 19, 2023
Tatiana APD
Sacramento, CA
[Hide Comment] Nice little crag!

Approach: It's easier to walk along the bottom of the talus field than right next to the river. Lots of thorny plants on the approach so wear pants. Once you get to the "burnt meadow," easiest path is along the dried up stream. Then you'll see a wall of lighter colored boulders on your right. That's when you head upward toward the notch/gully. You won't be able to see the crag until you're almost at it, so expect about a 30 min approach unless you know exactly where to go.

Climbing: This is a great place to practice trad placements, but not so great for actual trad technique. Most routes are face climbing with protection and little to no jamming.

In June, the wall was in the sun from lunchtime on. Jun 8, 2024