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Pygmy Pillars
California
> Sonora Pass Hig…
> Upper Highway 108
> Columns of the Giants
Description
Columnar basalt pillars further down the talus field from Hexcentric. Climbs range from 5.6-5.9. Climbing here is a bit dirty. All anchors are natural (no bolts) with a walk-off on climbers right. Be careful not to knock loose blocks off when topping out. This area is north facing so gets shade all day. Pretty secluded, I doubt you’ll ever see people on these.
Getting There
Cross the bridge and head East along the creek to the end of the talus field (there will be a small crest), then head up. You’ll see the area on your left as you reach the top of the crest.
[Hide Photo] L to R: Tinker's Trough 5.7, Common Kurt-esy 5.7, Micro Soft 5.8, Spread Sheet 5.9, Excel Crack 5.6, Word 5.7. Walk off to the right
[Hide Photo] Pygmy Pillars as seen from the dirt parking of the walk-in campground just upstream of the Column of the Giants parking. It can be approached during low water by boulder hopping the river near the…
[Hide Comment] I highly recommend Brad Young's Sonora Pass Highway guidebook for beta on this crag and numerous others, most of which are not on mountain project. The guidebook lists a total of six climbs here as well as good approach info and GPS coordinates.
The Sonora Pass isn't popular so I rarely see anyone even at so called "popular crags." A small rock without too many routes you can usually have to yourself even on holiday weekends.
Jul 24, 2020
[Hide Comment] On the approach avoid the talus as much as possible, staying as close to the river as possible. When you hit the burned meadow after the talus recedes to the right (south) hike until you see a narrow gully guarded by boulders and downed trees. Hike the gully to the top and you will see the pillars.
Oct 17, 2022
[Hide Comment] Super underrated crag! I loved almost every single climb here and encountered zero loose rock. About 1000x better than the rock and climbs on Hexentric down the way.
May 19, 2023
Approach: It's easier to walk along the bottom of the talus field than right next to the river. Lots of thorny plants on the approach so wear pants. Once you get to the "burnt meadow," easiest path is along the dried up stream. Then you'll see a wall of lighter colored boulders on your right. That's when you head upward toward the notch/gully. You won't be able to see the crag until you're almost at it, so expect about a 30 min approach unless you know exactly where to go.
Climbing: This is a great place to practice trad placements, but not so great for actual trad technique. Most routes are face climbing with protection and little to no jamming.
In June, the wall was in the sun from lunchtime on.
Jun 8, 2024
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Angel's Camp, CA
The Sonora Pass isn't popular so I rarely see anyone even at so called "popular crags." A small rock without too many routes you can usually have to yourself even on holiday weekends. Jul 24, 2020
Reno, NV
Yosemite/Lone Pine, CA
Sacramento, CA
Approach: It's easier to walk along the bottom of the talus field than right next to the river. Lots of thorny plants on the approach so wear pants. Once you get to the "burnt meadow," easiest path is along the dried up stream. Then you'll see a wall of lighter colored boulders on your right. That's when you head upward toward the notch/gully. You won't be able to see the crag until you're almost at it, so expect about a 30 min approach unless you know exactly where to go.
Climbing: This is a great place to practice trad placements, but not so great for actual trad technique. Most routes are face climbing with protection and little to no jamming.
In June, the wall was in the sun from lunchtime on. Jun 8, 2024