1. Start at the Barclay Lake trailhead.

2. Hike main trail to a bridge across large creek (~1 mile). The creek is dry mid-to-late summer. Don’t cross it.

3. Before the main trail crosses the creek, break into forest to the right of a large boulder.

4. Walk through forest (no trail) till it opens up then bushwhack a little to boulder field.

5. Traverse boulder field until under some large trees and an open wash should appear.

6. Climb wash to a steep, chossy, dirty waterfall. Climb around right side, staying out of bushes (exposed).

7. Continue up wash to a ramp which takes you up right into the forest before a gaping gully. There’s some hand lines on the ramp (exposed!).

8. Batman up first steep rope in forest and then head hard right. You should end up at a small rock face with a bolt and fixed lines.

9. Climb past bolt and head right again. Fixed lines then guide you the rest of the way to the top of the forest rib.

10. Descend into gulley. There’s usually water here until early August.Climb gulley up and over a low 5th step with a fixed line attached.

11. Continue up ~50m to where you need to rope up. You should see an old bolt and a bolt to the left. Go left. Climbing straight up the slab line is possible late season (it’s a waterfall early season), but it’s harder and might require putting on climbing shoes!

12. Climb left on ledges 10-15m and then up/right at the 2nd bolt. Climb past a 3rd bolt to a rap anchor (35m).

13. Continue up and right on easy slabs passing 3 bolts to a large ledge with a rap anchor (another 35m). 

14. Coil up some of the rope and traverse the ledge left till you’re beneath a gully on the left side. There’s an exposed section early on the traverse with a bolt.

15. Start climbing below an old bolt. Climb past this bolt and up to a constriction with a rap anchor (30m). This constriction in the gulley is usually running with water. 

16. Continue up right side of gully (natural pro) to another rap anchor (35m).

17. Climb past old bolts on the 5.9 crux of the approach and up to an anchor (30m).

18. Unrope and scramble up and left to the base of the tower. If you’re doing anything sketchy you’re probably going the wrong way. If you nail the approach with this excellent beta, it should take 3-4 hours to get to the base of the tower.

Through June/early July, water can be found left of the first 5.11 pitch of Deep Blue.

Descent track is shown on the map.