All Locations > New Hampshire > WM: Kancamagus… > Sundown Ledge > Sundown Bouldering

06a. Beyond "Lurp" Boulders Climbing

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Elevation:	1,006 ft
GPS:	44.00611, -71.23213 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	8,065 total · 206/month
Shared By:	Robert Hall on Jul 15, 2020 · Updates
Admins:	Joe M, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

Description

As part of the re-organization the boulders and photos that were in this sub-area have been moved to the new sub-area “ Main Face Boulders”

Please do not add routes here as this sub-area will be deleted.

Without a doubt, the gem of this sub-section, if not all of Sundown (and maybe even NH???) , is the 25ft-high, overhanging East Face, of "The Prow*" boulder that includes the climbs "Moose Ball Arete*" (So named, but unclimbed, by Jon Guinter; and here I assume it has been climbed) and "Short Circuit". Donovan Spaulding's photograph of the climber on this east face ("Short Circuit", V7) shows this aspect so well that I have placed it first, ahead of the map of the sub-section!

In a personal e-mail from Jon I asked him if the Prow was boulder on which the climb "Moose Ball" existed. He felt it probably was. When I got to the formation, there was no doubt in my mind...the magnificent overhanging East face looks just like the prow of a streamlined ship!

Because of Boulders on both sides, a Left-to-Right (or vice verse) wouldn't make a lot of sense. So I will put in the boulders such that the Left-to-Right sort organizes them as they would be encountered on the hiking path.

This is the first area where the boulders have to potential for multiple routes (Especially The "Prow" and what I call "Bou1der 5")

Getting There

Take the hiking trail to the split, continue straight ahead (the "right" or "East" loop of the trail) and this sub-area starts once you pass the climb "Lurp" (where you can look right into the woods and see the "Stop in French" boulder).

About 200 ft beyond "Lurp" you'll see two boulders off to the right in the woods. I have assigned them #1 and # 2. #1 is the most obvious from the trail, and 12-15 ft high. Several photos in the "climb" "Photos of Unknown Boulders "

Continuing on the hiking trail in about another 400-500 ft and the trail will swing left to cross a (usually dry) streambed (The trail will pass between two cut logs, don't confuse these with the cut logs at Triangle) , and in another 100-150 ft the boulder field / talus of the Main Cliff will be visible on your left.

In another 30-50 ft the trail will pass a 6 ft high boulder on the right, look to the left for what I've called "Boulder #3" (Photo)

Next you'll pass through cut logs on each side of the trail, with a burned out stump on the right. To your left is the boulder "Triangle".

About 150 ft beyond Triangle you'll cross a small stream, no more than a trickle normally. Look to the left for the Prow, with Moose Ball Arete and Short Circuit. It takes about 10 +/- minutes of hiking to reach the Prow from the Kiosk. (Not the "5 min" mentioned by Jon) Of course, if you're stopping to look at boulders it will take longer, and if you're hightailing it "hell bent for leather" with younger knees than mine, you might make it in 5.

To your immediate right (right of the trail) there's a Boulder (#4) that is split and whose South face might be worth a look. In the woods to the right, "below" the split boulder, is Boulder#5 a 10-12 ft high boulder with 4 distinct faces...(photos) Contributor Apelton reports there are at least 8 problems on this boulder. (See "Problems & Photos of Boulder #5" for details on 2 of these)

Continuing on the hiking trail for another 350-400 ft you pass beneath a huge boulder on rock steps. I called this boulder "Tipsy" which will be obvious once you get above it on the trail! About 40 ft into the woods on the right are two boulders 15-18ft High which might have some promise. Boulder #6 and the boulder next to it (Photos) are about 40 feet to the southwest.