Elevation: | 9,056 ft | 2,760 m |
GPS: |
39.02415, -105.30554 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 24,312 total · 447/month | |
Shared By: | Tyler KC on Jun 20, 2020 · Updates | |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
- PLEASE NOTE: The wall sits relatively close to a NF mining lease purchased by the RAMS mining club. Theses individuals who pay for mineral access to the NF DO NOT own the land; they simply have mineral rights to dig in their perimeter (located nearby the wall). When the RAMS lease is up, they are to return the earths surface back to normal and fill in the scarring atrocity they've engineered below the cliff. Unfortunately I'm rather doubtful the NF will uphold this standard..
This being stated: All travel and use of NF lands is unobstructed through the lease, you as a tax paying resident in America have the right to travel on NF roads that intersect mining leases and travel/hike on land inside of the leases as well. The only stipulation is you may not legally dig for minerals.
In short, travel with awareness around here and respect the user group that is commonly around digging for minerals; don't dig for rocks.
Abide by this one simple rule and the two user groups out here should coexist rather nicely.
References:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
fs.fed.us/emc/nepa/oged/inc…
The Deets!
If someone were to have told you of sub-Alpine, 30m sport rigs in the South Platte that consisted of steep sandstone style glory jugs, Lander-esque pockets, and absolutely no crowds all on uncharacteristic S'Platte granite; you likely wouldn't believe them. which is a testament to why you'll likely never believe such climbing could exist a mere hour from Colorado Springs (a town cursed for quality hard rock climbing...).
Just due north of the classic Eleven Mile Canyon lies the "Crystal Fortress"; a wall with a radically exposed position above the burn scars of Crystal Creek. It holds a stunning backdrop of Pike's Peak to the south and a glimpse into Hackett Gulch/Big Rock Candy Mountain.
The wall itself is quite the geologic anomaly for climbing in the area. It hosts mostly steep granite with holds that are not the norm of most S'Platte slabs or Thunder Ridges alligator skinned faces.
There is a littering of white quartz and smokey quartz (hence the crags name) along the hillside approach leading up to the wall. Local rock hounds come from afar to dig the the next valuable specimen of Amazonite (*read access details above).
The cliff itself hosts a lower tier of climbing on mediocre granite but eventually gives way to an upper tier that is thought to be some of the best featured granite in Colorado. Unfortunately most of the routes here have some sort of rest ledge or break in climbing, but that helps stylize the "checkpoint" nature of the routes here. Sculpted jugs abound, and the occasional pocket that usually hosts crystalline structures inside. The headwalls on all the routes make up for the mediocrity below.
Climbing here is pretty athletic and typically involves big pulls on big holds (sorry, short folks), it's also rather adventurous and hosts routes that are a bit more involved than your typical sport climbs of the front range. Bring your big guns, kneebar pads, gumption, and a strong lead head and you'll be rewarded with some of the best sport climbing in the south Platte.
Keep in mind this is a new crag, most routes will likely have some more cleaning in time due to traffic. Rome/Rifle wasn't built in day...
This crag has a SE-facing aspect with midday shade. It is climbable year round, though it is best in the afternoons during spring/summer.
Getting There
From here, locate a junction where you'll take a left onto FS Rd 756 (Battle Rd.). Drive slowly down the rocky and rutted road till you reach the deadend pullout (a Subaru is capable of making the drive). This is the obvious parking spot for The Crystal Fortress. If you cannot locate the wall from here, you're in big trouble....
This crag is still pretty new, and a uniform trail has yet to be established, but there is currently a path of least resistance/social trail formed from the developing party thus far.
To find the trail, exit the parking area to the North and trend up and towards Crystal Fortress. Try to locate an indistinct trail outlined with sticks. If not, don't worry. You'll soon find yourself on an old fire break road. Head up the road to a mine claim marker on a post. Turn left (away from CF), and go up the hill about 30 -50 feet to find a trail that keeps you traveling in the same direction as the road. Take this trail to the large flat turn around at the end of another dirt road just shy of the saddle on the ridge to CF. From the North side of this flat area, you should be able to find a social trail to CF. This portion of the trail is marked with cairns.
This approach ends at 17th Parallel, the climb on the right end of the lower tier of the REMF Wall. To the right is the MACV Wall.
Classic Climbing Routes at Crystal Fortress
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