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| Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ● Eskimo Pie |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | ||
| ● Klondike Bar |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad | ||
| ● Puffin' Stuff |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR | ||
| ● Three Days On |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad | ||
| ● Four Days Off |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport | ||
| ● The Cutting Edge |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport |
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Twain Harte, CA
A few more notes: First, there are four top anchors for these eight routes (two routes there aren't shown as of now on this site). The far left top anchor (for Eskimo Pie and Klondike Bar) is newer. It consisted of two 3/8 inch stainless bolts, but somehow one of the bolts was loose (not just the hanger, the bolt). I replaced the loose bolt and added A.S.C.A.-supplied ClimbTech mussy hooks to that anchor.
The next anchor to the right (for two routes, including Puffin' Stuff) is replaced. I used three bolts, including two with mussy hooks and a third which is a bit of an experiment. The third bolt is placed so that, maybe, people who are toproping will clip a quickdraw to this bolt and that quickdraw will take the rope weight when toproping instead of the mussy hooks taking that weight (if used this way, it will save some wear and tear on the mussies). Will this third bolt work? Maybe.
The next anchor over serves Three Days On, Four Days Off and The Cutting Edge. I wanted to make this a three bolt anchor with mussy hooks too, but the existing anchor wasn't in a good place for that. Since I did the first ascent of the first two of these routes, I felt like I could legitimately change the anchor location. So I put the new three bolt anchor on closer-to vertical rock about five feet higher than the old anchor. That left a significantly longer last runout on Three Days On than had previously been there, so I put a replacement bolt just under where the old anchor had been. So Three Days On now has one more lead bolt than shown on the topo (the topo is in the guidebook, not on this site).
The fourth top anchor was for a route not shown here. It was shockingly rusted. Since this one was back from the top edge of the cliff, it's replaced now with two bolts with double ring hangers (that is, mussy hooks wouldn't work where this anchor is located and so I didn't use them). Oct 7, 2023