Pico de la Miel Rock Climbing

The main area in Sierra de la Cabrera with dozens of multi-pitch itineraries spanning the entire south face of the peak and so many of these are classics. The only drawback is the highway with cars zooming right below, if this were tucked in in the mountains away for roads and noise it would be world class. Most Madrid climbers will learn to trad climb in Pico de la Miel, and it will keep providing routes to train as they progress to 6a and beyond. Then there are the linkups, you can pick and choose pitches to make longer meandering routes along the wall. For this reason Pico de la Miel gets busy, especially on weekends. You will probably find lines on the easier classics. Tends to be quiet on weekdays though.

Most of climbs are in the sun all day making them great winter rock climbs, but heat traps in the summer. Almost all routes are trad with bolts in unprotectable slabs and with bolted anchors (with the occasional tree) making this a low risk evironment to push your trad climbing a little beyond your comfort zone. For most people a double rack is recommended as some pitches are long, but you can make do with a light single rack if you are confident. A #4 cam is often useful. Most parties use double 60m ropes but you can use a single rope too if you plan to walk off. Almost all routes end at the geodesic pole on the summit of the peak. From here you can walk off, there are two descent trails, one to the east and one to the west. The western trail works better for most climbs. You can also rap down the face as there are multiple bolted anchors, though best to walk off on busy weekends as there will be parties all over the wall.

There is a great topo with all the climbs and pitches on Pico de la Miel, see below.