Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 6,275 ft
GPS: 20.60582, -100.33661
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 758 total · 15/month
Shared By: Ricky Townsend on Mar 23, 2020
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco

Description Suggest change

There are almost never other climbers here, but if there is, then it's a lot of climbers, like 5-10, rappel and sport climbing outings and clinics held here, but not very often. There is a small bouldering cove right before you get to the actual crag, its very orange in color and the locals of the town that the crag overlooks (El Marques) sometimes have barbeques in the bouldering spot. All the boulder holds are marked with chalk, the wall is probably 4.5 meters max in height. DO NOT come here just for bouldering, this place is so old and has seen so many climbers that all te holds are covered in a greasy glossy feel, there is almost no friction, it's real rock but it feels exactly like resin rocks, like the fake rocks at amusement parks. There are probably about 10 boulders from V2-V7, but they are by no means "classics" and are very confusing. The easier routes on the main crag also have that fake rock feel, but the two hardest ones still have grip/friction on their holds. The seating can be tricky, especially if there are more than 5 people. There are ants and animal droppings in some spots. The good thing is that there is shade there all day long. The routes range from 5.7-5.11d or 5.12a, or 4+-7c+ for all you weirdoes out there. Some of the routes are potentially dangerous if you fall, but the bolts are very close together so I guess you could say it's well protected. There are several big rocks at the base with bolts in them, do not be put off by this, people simply practice putting in bolts on those rocks. The two easiest routes are very obvious, they are in between two dihedrals, so they are basically in the corner. The two hardest routes are also very obvious as they are the tallest, blankest, and slightly overhanging.

Getting There Suggest change

Park in the obvious parking lot, there is a single tree right next to the trail up to the crag for shade. Follow the clay-colored trail up the hill and about halfway up, there is a small bouldering half-cave to the left. Continue up the trail and past the satellite compound. There is going to be a fork in the path, the left one goes up to the top of the crag where you can find 3 very spaced glue in bolts for rappelling, and the right path goes down around the main rock and leads to the crag.

1 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: La Cañada Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading