Dark Side Climbing
|GPS:||47.436, -121.631 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||6,562 total · 235/month|
|Shared By:||Flava Flav on Feb 2, 2020 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
Here are the best collection of dry tooling routes in the Northwest! It was partially developed by a local, then abandoned due to the varying quality of free climbing and inherent choss. For dry tooling, it is incredible!
Rockfall is still common, be cautious even on popular routes.
All routes are regularly climbed and maintained, all stainless hardware and natural holds whenever possible. Do not attempt to modify holds on routes without permission. We are very active and can address any rock/hardware issues. Please use monopoint crampons or rock shoes only!
It is our hope that this area maintains a high bar for what the sport of dry tooling demands. The grades are in line with grades in Canadian Rockies, so you will be fine climbing anywhere else. Train hard, and make us proud in the mountains!
TR Access information may be found on the Wayne’s World page, since you have to cross in front and around to access the top of Darkside.
Guidelines For Sustainability And Ethics
Manufacturing holds on routes without consent of the developer is completely out of the question. If something seems to be missing, you need to contact the local developer and we will address it as soon as possible. Most if not all the routes have enough features that missing holds are irrelevant. Try deeper lock offs or pull on draws until you are strong enough to rise to the route's level.
Monopoint crampons are preferred, or rock shoes. Dual point crampons seem to blow placements faster and get levered off with the second point, and rock shoes are surprisingly way more fun and better for training movement.
The vision for developing a quality dry tooling route is tiered. First, natural holds are preferred. If the natural placements aren't solid enough to be sustainable (likelyhood of blown out placements) then a small pocket is added within the natural placement. This is also discretionary for being safe for the first 2-3 bolts for leading, feeling confident to hang from a single tool and clip a bolt and not blow the placement is very important. The last tier is making a placement within reason to maintain the relative difficultly and movement of the route. Rarely, there isn't anything natural to enhance, with great reservation a hold may be created. It takes a lot of thought and visualization to make something up that is also aesthetic.
This is everyone's rock. As a community, if you desire to develop and have the skills to do so we only ask that you communicate with us to help maintain the high standard and beauty of the routes that are already there. We have collaborated with developers in other states, countries, and among other climbers to see if how we are developing is in the best style. The crag is truly a gift, and we only get one chance to do it right for future generations.
Classic Climbing Routes at Dark Side
Days w Precip