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Mt. Loki

International > N America > Canada > Nunavut > Baffin Island > Baffin Mountains

Description

Mt. Loki is a beautiful peak referred to as "the Matterhorn of Baffin Island" as referenced by Mark Synnott in the Baffin Island guide book he authored. It's a striking peak with many long continuous corner systems and can be easily seen from atop the Asgard Towers. Plenty of moderate free climbing FA potential exists and free climbing expeditions to Baffin should certainly plan a visit to this peak.

Getting There

Mt. Loki is accessed via the Turner Glacier. It's possible to access the Turner Glacier from either Glacier Lake or from the Parade Glacier via the Caribou Glacier similar to the path one would take to access the start of the Scott Route on the North Tower of Mt. Asgard. There is a nice bivy spot on a median moraine which also appears to be popular for teams attempting routes on the north face of Mt. Asgard.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Easy Snow
 1
● South Buttress
Trad, Snow, Alpine 14 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● South Buttress
 1
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine 14 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mt. Loki from the Turner Glacier. The Parade Glacier veers off to the left in this photo.
[Hide Photo] Mt. Loki from the Turner Glacier. The Parade Glacier veers off to the left in this photo.
Twin towers of Mt. Loki as seen from the Summit of Mt. Asgard South Tower
[Hide Photo] Twin towers of Mt. Loki as seen from the Summit of Mt. Asgard South Tower