Elevation: 9,370 ft
GPS: 38.928, -104.957 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 33,936 total · 1,362/month
Shared By: Bob Choss on Nov 14, 2019
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Road Closures Details

Description

This is a large area of Pike National Forest with clusters of granite boulders and some small outcroppings offering bouldering and a few sport routes, as well as trad and TR opportunities. Far from a destination for climbers, this area is a fun day of 'adventure climbs' for Colorado Springs and Woodland Park locals. Most of the rock is quite chossy, but there are many high quality lines with good movement on cleaner stone here - everything from butt-draggers to classic highballing and arduous rope endeavors. There are some abandoned hunter/mining trails, but strong LNT (leave no trace) ethics should be used when visiting. Though this is forest land that is open to public, there is a private summer day camp called Eagle Lake just past the small summit to the north. When considering gear, bring a light rack for setting directionals for toproping or building trad anchors. A short length of rope or long cordalette is ideal for slinging many trees and large boulders used for anchors here. We've exclusively used a 70m rope; however, most of the pitches are short, so a 60m should suffice. Most of what has been developed outside of bouldering has been done on TR unless otherwise specified. If any climbs are done truly FFA, please message me, and I will apply any changes needed. This is a major work in progress that will change frequently as development continues. I am unaware of any previous documented climbing activity here, so please take current names, grades, and ratings with a large grain of salt.... Any improvement input or additions are highly appreciated!

Getting There

From Garden of the Gods Park: watching mileage from the start of the dirt on Rampart Range Road, go 12 miles until a small summit is visible on the right side of the road. The main area is on the southern saddle below the small summit. There is a designated parking area about 0.5 miles south, although many people use various pulloffs. There is a large shoulder/pulloff about 100 yards north past the approach drainage on the west side of the road.

From Woodland Park: take Rampart Range Road (300) south towards Rampart Reservoir. Eventually you will pass a fork at Road 303. Continue straight on 300 for another mile or so past the turn for Eagle Lake Camp.

The small summit and saddle are just south of the summer camp on the east side of Road 300. From the road, find the faint single track trail that leads up the short scree hill and into the woods. Turn left just before the first large rock formation, and head uphill for The Saddle and Talus Field areas, or continue on the faint single track trail to the saddle between The Stacks and Magic Kingdom areas ~5-10 minutes. It takes quite a bit of hiking,  navigating, and bushwhacking to get around, and I have been as accurate as I can with the map points which should help a lot for some of the more obscure rocks. There are many burnt and dead widowmaker trees still standing from the Waldo Canyon fire, so use caution. There are few established trails, so use the topos provided below as a general guide. Practice leave no trace ethics in this peaceful and beautiful place!

The small summit seen from Road 300. Follow a faint wash/trail up the scree hill into the woods on the right.

Topo Maps:

General overview:

Detail of general trails and subareas:

Sub areas and trails, updated 4/10/21.

Seasonal Road Closure

Per Forest Service website:
"
  • Rampart Range Recreation Area roads and trails are closed annually by December 1 and remain closed throughout the winter.
  • Roads and trails reopen when conditions are favorable for summer recreation. A target date is April 1, but weather conditions may delay opening until late-May pursuant to a "mud-season" closure order.  The closure order is in effect April 1-May 31 annually, to provide resource protection for all National Forest System roads & trails in the Recreation Area"

109 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Bigfoots

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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