Elevation: 6,147 ft
GPS: 35.807, -106.153 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 8,352 total · 316/month
Shared By: A Miller on Oct 4, 2019
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

Description

This is a morning shade wall, great for warm season climbing. It faces northwest and does not see sun until after 3pm. The routes here combine face and some crack climbing, though none of the routes require gear other than clipping bolts as the cracks were either between large, solid, but hollow blocks or in short sections that didn't justify leaving that one bolt out. There are a couple routes that have an optional hand-sized piece such as the warmup "mice and Men" or the two lines that share the same start with "Steinbook" and "Traipse of Wrath". The crag cam is left in the rock below "Traipse of Wrath" , please replace it when you are done.
***Note that for much of this crag the routes require a step or two on the soft, red earth underlying the basalt plateau. This is unconsolidated sediment of the Santa Fe Formation and is not to be trusted to hold your weight. We have carefully places stepping rocks at locations to allow you to easily clip the first bolt, but please be careful treading on this formation as it will continue to degrade with time if it is abused and will affect the crag. Most routes have a low first bolt to make it easy to start the routes safely.

Getting There

Same approach as for the Eden wall, but when crossing "Arroyo Ancho" (Wide Arroyo) aim for the east wall of the canyon (on your left) by approaching the trail starting at the base of a long nose slope that descends from the escarpment towards you at the arroyo.

22 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: East of Eden Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at East of Eden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Mice and Men
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
No Sin No Virtue
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
Tortilla Flat
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
Steinbook
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
Cannery Prow
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Fear Corrupts
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 9
Cup of Gold
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Dreadful Beauty
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
Raising Cain
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Thou Mayest
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Twist of Cain
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Traipse of Wrath
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Dubious Battle
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Sweet Thursday
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 5
Tarantula Hawk
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mice and Men
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
No Sin No Virtue
 8
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Tortilla Flat
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Steinbook
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Cannery Prow
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Fear Corrupts
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Cup of Gold
 9
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Dreadful Beauty
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Raising Cain
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Thou Mayest
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Twist of Cain
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Traipse of Wrath
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Dubious Battle
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Sweet Thursday
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Tarantula Hawk
 5
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in East of Eden »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments