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d. Ouest Centrale

International > Europe > France > 05 Southern Alps > Haut Durance /… > d. Guisane valley > Pantalon

Description

Slab with lots of fun moves on positive holds on quartzite rock.
Faces mainly SW.
Routes up to 150 ft tall.

No fixed hardware as of 2019.
. . . (except two old pitons).

Top-Roping: Likely possible to set up "natural" anchors with with long slings or cord using trees or rocks on the summit of the Pantalon west peak, or perhaps an intermediate anchor on the flat platform on top of the obvious diagonal right-pointing roof. One way to reach the top summit is to first make the approach to sector "Aiguille Basse", next continue about 25 ft across bottom of that sector, then diagonal up Left (NW) about 200 ft on vague herd path to GPS latitude longitude approx (N44.9746 E6.5237). See overhanging orange rock to right, which is sector "Oranges d'Ouest". Walk right about 25 ft across the bottom of the orange rocks, then up a short narrow gully, then continue right about 25 ft across and up steep slippery slope into center of wide steep vegetated gully. Up this until it gets gentler, then traverse 50 ft right onto gentler terraing and up to summit.
. . . (Could reach intermediate platform by rappelling or getting lowered from anchor which you first set up on the summit).

Name of this sector in French translates into English as "West Central".

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose, so - (in addition to being sure to wear a climbing helmet) - the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber or anyone setting up anchors or protection above.

Getting There

First make the approach to sector "Aiguille Basse", next continue about 25 ft across bottom of that sector, then diagonal up Left (NW) about 100 ft on vague herd path until recognize this sector above right.

The base of this sector is at GPS latitude longitude approx (N44.9744 E6.5240). Some of the routes end up on the summit of "le Mont Pantalon Ouest" - the west peak - at approx (N44.9745 E6.5241).

Routes from Left to Right

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 1
coins gauche
TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
crêtes et renflements à droite
TR 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
coins gauche
 1
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a TR
crêtes et renflements à dro…
 1
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR 2 pitches