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Sloan Peak

Washington > Northwest Region > Darrington & Mt… > Glacier Peak Wilderness

Description

Sloan Peak has been described as "The Matterhorn of the Cascades" due to its steep rock summit. With this distinctive profile and elevation of 7,835 feet, Sloan is easily recognizable from many other peaks in the area. The Corkscrew Route is the easiest on the mountain, traversing the glacier on the East face before curling around the Southern buttress and reaching the summit via improbable 3rd class terrain. More technical routes also exist on the peak, including Fire on the Mountain, Diamond in the Rough, the West Face, NW Buttress, and the Southwest Face.

Getting There

Two approaches exist:
- Bedal Creek - take the Mountain Loop Highway 18.25 miles south of Darrington or 7 miles north of Barlow Pass (~1 mile South of the Bedal Campground), and turn onto Forest Road 4096. Drive 2 miles to the trailhead (2,800ft).
- Cougar Creek - take the Mountain Loop Highway 17 miles south of Darrington or 8.25 miles north of Barlow Pass (~0.25 miles North of the Bedal Campground), and turn onto the North Fork Sauk River Road. Drive 4.5 miles to a pullout with a sign for Sloan Peak (1,900 ft).

Routes from Left to Right

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 1
Northwest Buttress
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 1
Diamond in the Rough
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Fire on the Mountain
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Easy Snow
 17
Corkscrew Route
Trad, Snow, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Northwest Buttress
 1
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Diamond in the Rough
 1
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Fire on the Mountain
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Corkscrew Route
 17
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sloan Peak (on the left) from Mount Pugh
[Hide Photo] Sloan Peak (on the left) from Mount Pugh