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Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
---|---|---|---|---|
● The Gardner |
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c TR | ||
● the wee little beastie |
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a TR | ||
● Triangles |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR | ||
● Terrafirma |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR | ||
● Terraformer |
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR | ||
● The Arborist |
|
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad | ||
● SAR Left |
|
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR | ||
● SAR Right |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR | ||
● SARchasm |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR | ||
● The Cleft |
|
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR |
Chilliwack, BC
Vancouver, BC
Originally, in pre-2010, the area was much smaller than it is currently. There were two bolted lines (labeled on the map as SAR left and SAR right). The routes were labeled with those names as the current local knowledge had it that they were originally bolted by Coquitlam SAR. All areas to the right and left of that indentation in the wall were covered in moss/dirt/growth, and there was vegetation growing between the two at the top of the area. The top bolts of SAR Right were bolted into large, unattached boulders which subsequently fell from the wall.
Over the course of about two years, (pre-2013) the crag was slowly developed by 3 members of the climbing community, looking to develop a primarily trad line training crag. There were many many people who came out and joined for some work days here and there when their time allowed, in total probably something like 20 different people assisted in the cleaning. During this cleaning phase, all of the lines listed (other than the SAR left and SAR right) were cleaned and lead by the 3 members, as trad routes. At this time, most of the original anchor bolts were installed, including the ground anchors on the boulders at the bottom. During this time, creation of the giant belay platform at the bottom was done, as well as the berms to the right exposing the rock trench.
Post 2013, the bluff was used for BCMC training sessions for a couple of years, but no further cleaning was done by the original 3 members. At some point around 2013, someone (unknown to me) retro-bolted The Arborist, changing it from a trad climb to a sport climb. Additional bolts were added (by others, unknown to me) to various other faces. The only bolts on the face when everything was originally climbed, were the bolts on SAR Left, SAR Right... all other bolts have been added since.
The Arborist was named for the pruning of two cedars that were in the crack
The Gardener was named for the copious amount of gardening needed to make the route safe to climb
Terraformer was led earlier than Terrafirma, with Terrafirma being named afterwards, relative to that climb as it was on much easier terrain than Terraformer, with more pro.
SARchasm - the hardest line on the crag, named after the climb immediately below it and its entrance into the giant gap... and maybe a bit of sarcasm during the making of the line. :)
The Cleft - obvious why the name...
Wee Little Beastie - a small, but temperamental as a trad line, climb... named after one of the children of the original climber.
Triangles - named after the holds and moves of the climb (I think... I was never 100% sure if that was why)
Also around the right side there were a couple of top rope climbs that got soloed over time.. Five Ton Jack... and two more that I can't remember what they were called.
Except for Terraformer, The Cleft, and SARchasm, all the lines were free solo'ed by one of the 3 members over the years.
Great memories.. loved climbing there... a huge thank you to all the friends who helped make this possible. And a special thank you to 2 friends, you know who you are... :)
Very happy to hear that people are still using the area actively, and having fun times practicing and climbing! Jan 18, 2021
Vancouver, BC
Surprising that people drive to Squamish when there's good climbing right here in the tri-cities backyard! I think it just needs more climbers to keep it clean & active. I've got no climbing partners here so any climbers reading this who want more info or partner, I'm on FB Messenger as M Markus Harrison.
NOTE to Admins: Normally posts like this aren't posted here BUT this situation is different. We have excellent climbing that's going to waste due to disuse. We need to be greener: activate more local areas rather than just drive to Squamish. Aug 30, 2023