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Elevation: 2,220 ft
GPS: 45.13292, -70.19827
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Shared By: Chris Trautz on Jun 25, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall
Warning Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This wall is located just below the Appalachian Trail, on the eastern end of the cirque. Once familiar with the main walls, many routes can be set up for toprope from the stainless anchors if caution is used (aka an extra rope to assist your access using trees from above). Being a crag under development, the groundcover is very thick and unstable in many locations above and below the walls.

Getting There Suggest change

NOTE- See comment of 8/21/23 TJHussey for the closure of approach vis Carabasset Valley.


Very close to the Appalachian Trail (150 ft), but knowing where to break down through the trees to the base of the walls is key. Once you have been shown once, it's easy to find again. From the AT parking lot on East Flagstaff Rd, walk 50 yards further northwest on the gravel road and take the AT southbound (left) for exactly two miles to the descent gully (about an hour of gradual uphill hiking, or 45 minutes at a fast pace). Primary GPS points are shown below, with specific coordinates for the base of a route in its specific listing when available.

There are many small to medium-sized cliff bands to the south of the trail. In general, trend SW for several mintues when entering the left-hand descent gully (stay close to the trail, across a thick carpet of lichen covering the bedrock), then SE for a few more minutes to find the blocky 4th-class downhill approach to the right-most climb, First Kiss. You very well may discover a better approach on your own, but a short, long band of cliff will greet you if you stay too far left (SE) down the gully, one which may host quick climbs in the future...

Routes established as of 2023 are found on the three largest, neighboring walls along the broken cliff face. Diamond in the Rough is on the left (upper) wall, Crimson Thread through Frenchman's Fury are on the center wall, and Judo Chop through First Kiss are on the right wall. There seems to be some immediate offwidth development potential to the left of Judo Chop, see teaser photo below! Be safe out there, and remember to pack in - pack out.

N45.13486, W70.17259: Trailhead parking
N45.13389, W70.19850: Top of descent gully
N45.13293, W70.19827: Base of right-most route of main face (First Kiss)

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Off the Beaten Path Walls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
First Kiss
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Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
First Kiss
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
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