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Avalon Wilderness Reserve (Cape Pond Head) Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Avalon Wilderness Reserve (Cape Pond Head)

L › R R › L A › Z

	All Hands S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Benidict, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Egg, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Unknown (5.12) S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Unknown (5.12) S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Warm Up (Unknown Name), The S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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Elevation:	631 ft	192 m
GPS:	47.19691, -53.03984 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	2,619 total · 30/month
Shared By:	David Bruneau on May 6, 2019 · Updates
Admins:	David Bruneau Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Entry Permit Required for Camping at Cape Pond Details

While the crag itself is outside the Avalon Wilderness Reserve, Cape Pond campsite is inside the reserve. If you wish to drive all the way to Cape Pond for fishing or camping, a free wilderness entry Permit is required ( gov.nl.ca/eccc/natural-area…). You may be issued a fine if you enter the reserve without a permit.

Description

An excellent crag in a scenic, somewhat remote location. Due to the hard grades and development after the 2007 guidebook release, the crag sees little traffic. In the tall, steep section of the cliff, there are three fully bolted routes and three additional routes that can be toproped, which would make excellent sport climbs for those inclined to bolt them. All six routes have bolted anchors, some of which have rappel rings and some of which don't. A rappel anchor exists above the top of the cliff which can reach all six anchors; a good strategy is to leave anchors in place and rappel off the higher anchor to clean them at the end of the day.

Note: while the crag itself is actually outside the Avalon Wilderness Reserve, Cape Pond itself is inside the reserve. If you wish to drive all the way to Cape Pond for fishing or camping, a free wilderness entry Permit is required. You may be issued a fine if you enter the reserve without a permit.

Getting There

A high-clearance vehicle was needed to drive to the crag. (Truck/Jeep recommended, can get away with SUV) The long gravel road leading to Cape Pond is located in between Tors Cove and LaManche Provincial Park, along the southern shore highway. If approaching from St. Johns, take the southern shore highway past Tors Cove and turn right onto Cape Pond road (Intersection at 47.197541, -52.912899). Drive 14km along the rough gravel road, passing a number of cabins and Newfoundland Power dams, until a 150 ft high knob of grey rock (the crag) is visible on your right, north of the road. Start the hike to the cliff at 47.195560, -53.038840 approximately and park the car at a pullout appox 100 feet before trail starts.

The crag is 200-300 meters from the road, a well flagged trail starting in a small creek leads about 10 mins uphill through sparse mossy forest to the base of the crag. Continuing to follow the trail will lead around the left of the crag, up the backside, and give top access. Some scrambling and rappelling a very damaged rope is required.

The 14km drive along Cape Pond road takes about 45 mins driving carefully. The road ends at Cape Pond dam (15 km) - if you have reached this point you have driven too far. The end of the road is a good place to camp, but a free wilderness entry Permit is required. You may be issued a fine if you enter the reserve without a permit.