Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 5,952 ft 1,814 m
GPS: 35.80541, -106.14468
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 19,336 total · 238/month
Shared By: Aaron Miller on Apr 4, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown
Warning Access Issue: Effective May 2025 - Climbing Fixed Hardware Authorization Process for BLM walls at Diablo DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Mordor is a great alternative to the Solar Cave for cold seasons. Its located in a more remote section of Diablo Mesa and requires a 20 minute hike which is sure to get you away from the crowds.
In the winter, the sun begins to hit the warmups after 10am, so this is a great crag to sleep late for. Teh benefit is that you can climb in the sun here til at least 4:00, much later than for the Solar Cave.
Mordor was established in 2015 with the vision of The Ring. As this route was just too hard for us mortals, we bolted some easier lines around it as warmups, but some of them like Elvish Way and Gandalf the Grey became classics of their own. The Twin Towers being shorter crags came as a later thought, but the quality of the bullet-hard basalt proved to be worth all the effort and the routes are also excellent with a high density in the upper 11 to lower 12 range. There is a band of crumbly rock atop the Towers, but here the bulk of the climbing is over and there is typically just a stand-up and clip move remaining. Also, the area has been seeing a fair bit of traffic and the crumbles are cleaning up well into fairly solid holds. 

Getting There Suggest change

One can approach Mordor via the Grotto - scramble up to the top and then hook around the "Right Side". However, the best approach is by hiking down the Diablo Canyon box, and around the back of the Grotto Mesa. See attached map.

19 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Mordor Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Mordor

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
Baggins Crack
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 29
Hobbit Crack
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Exit ArĂȘte
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 9
Elvish Way
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 17
Saruman the White
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 24
Gollum
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Ent or the Dragon
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 16
Isengard
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Gandalf the Grey
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 19
The Ring
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Baggins Crack Middle Earth Sector
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Hobbit Crack Middle Earth Sector
 29
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Exit ArĂȘte Twin Towers Sector
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Elvish Way Middle Earth Sector
 9
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Saruman the White Twin Towers Sector
 17
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Gollum Middle Earth Sector
 24
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Ent or the Dragon Twin Towers Sector
 8
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Isengard Twin Towers Sector
 16
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Gandalf the Grey Middle Earth Sector
 6
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Ring Middle Earth Sector
 19
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mordor »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading