Elevation: 4,838 ft
GPS: 37.073, -112.003 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 39,758 total · 1,045/month
Shared By: Kyran Keisling on Apr 2, 2019
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

Description

The Buckskin Gulch has easy access, two star sport climbing, on Kaibab Limestone, in one of the most scenic places on Earth. The Gulch is surrounded by national parks; Zion, Bryce, Lake Powell and the Grand Canyon are only an hour or so away. The Paria Canyon, the Wave, White Pockets and Coyote Buttes are practically within yelling distance. The climbing here is mostly on vertical rock with the occasional bulbous overhang, lending itself to moderate routes that are typically very edgy, and require balance over strength. The rock is extremely fossiliferous and is uniquely decorated with really cool round chert nodules, some as big as softballs. The nodules are adorned with fossilized organisms like sea fans, brachiopods and crinoids and produce fantastic holds that make it seem like you are climbing a coral reef.  This area is very top rope friendly and a fantastic place to Top Rope Solo.  Many of the routes are equipped with chains that overhang the top and can be accessed without roping up or using a handy back up bolt so that you can set up the anchor. Be prepared for stiff, old school grades. The knock on the area is that the rock can be sharp in spots, especially in the black colored sections and can be hollow in the yellow. At Priest Draw they call the cute little warts on the limestone Croslies, here at the Gulch we call the sharp little bastard thingies, Chizzlies. Although there has been activity out here since the early 90's and many of the routes have been cleaned fairly well, there are still a few hidden choss gems to be discovered. For the climber used to polished, chalked up routes from areas that host the hordes, this place will seem a bit sketchy but for those that can handle a bit of "salt in their soup" it is all part of a savory desert cuisine.  The Gulch isn’t exactly what you would call a destination crag but it is however, a crag at a destination.  

Please leave the carabiners at the anchors. We have placed them there for everyone to use. Feel free to climb/lower off them, just don’t take them. Please don't top rope through the existing lowering apparatus, use your own draws/carabiners to eliminate excessive wear on the fixed gear.   

You can climb here all year but the preferable months are in the cold season. The cliffs have an east-west orientation so you can find shade or sun depending on the time of day. Most of the routes face west. The toughest part of the deep summer are the sage gnats. You can get up as early as you want to avoid the sun but you can’t avoid the gnats. They rate high on the chingaso scale and pack a mean bite that you will scratch until you bleed. They also crawl in your ears.

Getting There

This area is located on House Rock Valley Road BLM – 1065 and can be accessed via Highway 89 Kanab/Page on its north and highway 89A going to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon/Jacob’s Lake on its south end. The road is normally fine for all vehicles unless it is wet. Even the Trumpiest of 4x4 rigs will have issues if the red shale is muddy…. Even the ones with truck nuts.
For access from the north end:
Turn onto House Rock valley from Hwy 89 at about mile post 25 on a huge sweeping curve at the top of a steep grade through a large cut in the cliff, there will be a green sign marking the road from both directions. Drive a little over 4 miles on an improved road (2wd safe) until you come to a cattle guard. Immediately turn right on a small sticker two track road. The road ends at the gulch after 150 yards. Hike up the trail for a ¼ mile to the crag.
For access from the South end:
Turn on to House Rock Valley Rd off of 89A onto House Rock Valley Rd. Drive approximately 25 miles on a beautifully scenic dirt road. Drive past Wire Pass trailhead parking lot and State Line Campground. The turn off to the climbing area will be about a ¼ mile from the Buckskin Trailhead and you will be able to see the cliffs from there.

Camping and Other Nuggets of Info

The Stateline Campground is about six miles south of the crag.  It has bathrooms but no water, trash collection or electricity. There is dispersed camping on public land throughout the area. There is no private property to speak of anywhere, so pitch your tent where you please, build a big fire, howl at the moon, shoot yer guns and tip your hat to Southern Utah!  

Beer - Kanab and Page are approximately equal distance from the Gulch.  If you are in need of milk then both are a good choice but if you are in need of fully alcoholic brewski I would highly recommend going the AZ route. Page also has a Super Walmart and the Windy Mesa Bar made famous by Edward Abbey in the Monkey Wrench Gang.

Sand - It is really easy to get stuck in sand.  Don't drive in the sand unless your ride is equipped to handle sand.

Ruined Anansazi Stuff - There is tons of Anasazi graffiti, pottery detritus and construction throughout House Rock Valley.  Make sure to look up and to your right as you enter the Gulch and you can see a neat little granary in a cave and a little panel of pictographs under a small overhang.  I think a few of the pictographs are modern white man jobs, but a few look to be authentic.

Deer - House Rock Valley is the winter range for the Kaibab and Ponsegaunt mule deer herd, one of the most impressive anywhere.

47 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Buckskin Gulch

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