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Tuttle Slab

California > High Sierra > 14 - Whitney & Surrou…
Warning Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year DetailsDrop down

Description

Directly across from the imposing South Face of Lone Pine Peak stands a modest (far less imposing) 1,500-foot slab. It faces directly north and thus bears a coating of brightly-colored lichen that gives the slab a brilliant green hue. Currently there are a handful of moderate routes that are worth doing.

There has been very little in the way of documentation of climbing activity on this peak, save for an internet article (link: summitpost.org/jim-s-buttre…) and the odd personal communication that I've had with those who have established routes on the formation. Some known routes are intentionally not mentioned here. 

Getting There

Approach: approximately 1.5 to 2 hours. From the Tuttle Creek trailhead, hike the main trail about 30-40 minutes up to the Ashram (stone house). Continue past the Ashram up the North Fork of Tuttle Creek, following a faint trail (cairns) on the south side of the drainage. About 20 minutes past the Ashram is a small seasonal creek that may or may not provide your last water fill-up. About 1 to 1.5 hours past the Ashram, the cairned path gets very close to the base of the slab. Routes can be identified at this point. Leave the trail when it seems like a good place to do so, and scramble directly up to the base of the slab.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
● Professor Handsome
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
● Firecracker
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 2
● Bioluminescence
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
● Solstice Buttress
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Professor Handsome
 2
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
● Firecracker
 2
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
● Bioluminescence
 2
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
● Solstice Buttress
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 9 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The majesty of Tuttle Creek.
[Hide Photo] The majesty of Tuttle Creek.
Tuttle Slab routes. Topo by Derek Field. Photo by Vitaliy Musiyenko.
[Hide Photo] Tuttle Slab routes. Topo by Derek Field. Photo by Vitaliy Musiyenko.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

William Leventhal
Soul Cal
[Hide Comment] I believe this is referred to as the Keyhole Wall in the R.J. Secor book. Most of the climbs were established by the ever prolific Herb Laeger & friends. Jan 20, 2022
Derek Field
Nevada
[Hide Comment] No, it isn't. Keyhole Wall faces south (see Secor, pg. 51). This slab is on the other (north) face of the ridge. Diff fork of Tuttle. Jan 20, 2022