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5 - Whippersnapper Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in 5 - Whippersnapper Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Blood S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Canyon of the Crescent Moon S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Canyon of the Crescent Moon (Full Moon Extension) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Cross of Coronado, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Curse of the Jackal S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Don't Call me Junior! S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Golden Fleece, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hang the DJ S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Iron Phoenix S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Knowledge was their Treasure S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Misery and Gin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Mutton Buster S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Ol’ Dusty Trail S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Raiders of the Lost Crack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Redpoint Redemption S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Stags in Rut S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Temple of Doom S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Temple of the Sun S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

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Elevation:	5,340 ft	1,628 m
GPS:	31.69331, -110.43068 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	21,343 total · 258/month
Shared By:	Matt martinez on Mar 6, 2019 · Updates
Admins:	adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Private land crossing and parking information - PLEASE READ BELOW ! Details

You walk across private land to enter this area. The landowner has been tolerant so long as we don't disturb his land or his cattle. To keep a good relationship with him it is extremely important that climbers don't mess with grazing cattle, and that ALL GATES STAY AS THEY ARE FOUND. Also, the large gate on the north side of the parking area MUST NOT BE BLOCKED IN ANY WAY; the rancher regularly uses this gate as he drives a truck pulling a large trailer, so the road leading to said gate MUST STAY CLEAR by least 40 feet on all sides, including the road perpendicular to it (running east-west). If the parking area is full, drive past the bridge and park on the next pullout (not far), and NEVER BY THE GATE.

Please be respectful and keep this access open to climbers. Use posted photos for this area to familiarize yourself with where parking is and is not allowed. Access to all gates must remain available to a truck and trailer. Parking in any way that restricts access to the gates north of the highway will jeopardize access for climbing.

Description

This is the expansive wall at the center of the cliff. Potential for many 35 meter routes and lots of moderate shorter pitches. The right side of the cliff doesn't get shade until around 1pm so afternoons or days when the rest of the crag is too cold will be perfect. The left side gets shade before 11 so will be nice even on the warmer days.

Note: this area is still under development so new routes will be a little gritty. Please avoid red-tagged routes and fixed lines!

Getting There

Approach from either the Vineyard OR the Welcome Wall/Bowling Alley trails.

If approaching from the vineyard, cut close to the cliff and follow the trail all the way to the far right side of the cliff, passing Pumpkin Patch and Superhero Wall. Note: If you're not already at the Bowling Alley, this is currently the easier approach as it is mostly cut in and stable, save for a few short steep sections (from Vineyard up to Pumpkin Patch and the last stretch to the base of Whippersnapper).

If approaching from the Welcome Wall, look for the fork about 30 meters before approaching the Welcome Wall. The Trail is clear and there are plans to cut it in and reinforce it.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at 5 - Whippersnapper Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 28 ● Mutton Buster Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 16 ● Ol’ Dusty Trail Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 22 ● Raiders of the Lost Crack Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 21 ● Don't Call me Junior! Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 19 ● Canyon of the Crescent Moon Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 11 ● Redpoint Redemption Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 4 ● Misery and Gin Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 7 ● Canyon of the Crescent Moon (Ful… Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 14 ● Temple of the Sun Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 4 ● Knowledge was their Treasure Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 10 ● Hang the DJ Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 5 ● Temple of Doom Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 10 ● Stags in Rut Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 6 ● The Cross of Coronado Sport