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Elevation: 636 ft 194 m
GPS: 37.96774, -90.5346
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 34,227 total · 419/month
Shared By: Marcus Floyd on Feb 27, 2019
Admins: Dave Hug, Nick Richards, Jeremy Collins
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Description Suggest change

The Main Bluff sits just north of the Main Bluff parking area, toilets, flat grassy field, and before the main car bridge. Nestled along the north side of a sharp bend in the Big Piney River, the south-facing limestone offers great traditional lines, vertical cracks, a variety of sport lines, and boulder problems. This exposed layer, of solid limestone, provides a diversity of slopers, crimpers, slabs, vertical walls, bouldering roofs, and separated boulders! Yep, the Main Bluff offers a little bit of something for every rock climber. The bluff line is divided into different wall sections, individual boulders, and groups of boulders. One the eastern (right) side of the continuous cliff line is a bouldering section that's come to be known as the Matt Damon Wall. Further right, a spread of boulders can be found in groups.

Getting There Suggest change

The Main Bluff sits just north of the Main Bluff parking area, toilets, flat grassy field, and before the main car bridge. Park, in one of the parking spaces, and head up the steep trail, just north of the parking spaces. This main trail heads up to the right side of the Main Bluff. A narrow ledge heads left along the cliff line, which divides the cliff, in some spots, into two sections. The upper section of rock is the better quality rock.

The Main Bluff is divided into wall sections which are listed right-to-left because the steep approach trail accesses the north-eastern end of the cliff face first. The Matt Damon Wall (low bouldering roof section) trends left, around the corner, to the Overlook Wall (A: Wall). Watch your step along the narrower sections of trail, especially when wet!

Lower trail heads along the river, west out of the sharp bend in the main road. This trail leads to some of the lower boulders.

31 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 11
● Guide Crack
Trad
C: Jam Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 39
● Pump Me Up
Sport, TR
D: Thurmond Slab
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 33
● Rubens Range
Trad, TR
D: Thurmond Slab
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
● Heavy Bells
Trad
C: Jam Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
● Chockstone
Trad, TR
B: Tre France Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 23
● Onlooker
Sport
B: Tre France Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 10
● Wayward Traveler
Sport
C: Jam Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 23
● Little Trad Direct
Sport, TR
B: Tre France Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 20
● Little Trad
Sport
B: Tre France Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
● Recovery
Sport
A: Overlook Wall
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 23
● Hittin the Vein
Sport
C: Jam Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 18
● Tre France'
Sport
B: Tre France Wall
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
● Torn Tips
Sport
D: Thurmond Slab
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 13
● Ottomania
Sport, TR
C: Jam Wall
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 9
● Ripped Flesh
Sport
D: Thurmond Slab
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Guide Crack C: Jam Wall
 11
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
● Pump Me Up D: Thurmond Slab
 39
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
● Rubens Range D: Thurmond Slab
 33
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
● Heavy Bells C: Jam Wall
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Chockstone B: Tre France Wall
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
● Onlooker B: Tre France Wall
 23
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport
● Wayward Traveler C: Jam Wall
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
● Little Trad Direct B: Tre France Wall
 23
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
● Little Trad B: Tre France Wall
 20
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Recovery A: Overlook Wall
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Hittin the Vein C: Jam Wall
 23
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Tre France' B: Tre France Wall
 18
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Torn Tips D: Thurmond Slab
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Ottomania C: Jam Wall
 13
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, TR
● Ripped Flesh D: Thurmond Slab
 9
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Bluff »

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Far right side of Overlook Wall, just left of the Matt Damon Roof
Far right side of Overlook Wall, just left of t…
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Sport Climbing Map
Sport Climbing Map
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