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East Buttress

Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > RMNP - Mixed/Ice > Bear Lake Trail… > Emerald Lake /… > Hallett Peak - ice/mi…

Description

The climbing here can be described as scrappy easy mixed climbing with low objective hazard. Most routes are M3-M4 with a bit of M5 here and there. It's generally good from January to May and involves easy drytooling and turf climbing, with no ice but enough loose rock that freezing temps and some snow are needed to catch best conditions. Although the quality of climbing here is not great, given the low objective hazard (especially low avy risk), easy grades, and short approach, it makes for a great place to learn how to trad mixed climb, or for a good stormy weather day when bigger or more technical objectives may not be as appealing.

Routes here include: East Ridge, Central Couloir Right, Coconut Bliss, Tastee Freeze, Dairy Lite, No. 1 Gully, No. 2 Gully, Steeplechase, Butterfingers, Left of the Cleft, and Astro Turf.

Most routes share the same descent options which generally involve walking down Hallett Couloir, walking down couloirs into Chaos Canyon or (on bad avalanche risk days) rappelling the route of ascent from trees and boulders with a pair of 60m ropes.

Getting There

Approach from the Bear Lake Trailhead. Hike/ski/snowshoe to Emerald Lake. From here, the going gets more variable.

Routes from Left to Right

M4-5
 2
Coconut Bliss
Mixed, Alpine 3 pitches
M4
 5
Tastee Freeze
Mixed, Alpine 3 pitches
M4
 2
Dairy Lite
Mixed, Alpine 3 pitches
M4
 2
No. 1 Gully
Mixed, Alpine 3 pitches
M3-4
 1
No. 2 Gully
Mixed, Alpine 4 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M4 Easy Snow
 3
Steeplechase
Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M4
 1
Butterfingers
Trad, Mixed, Alpine 4 pitches
M4-5
 1
Astro Turf
Trad, Mixed, Alpine 3 pitches
M2
 1
Central Couloir Right
Trad, Mixed, Alpine 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4 Steep Snow
 2
Left of Cleft
Mixed, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
 5
East Ridge
Snow, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Coconut Bliss
 2
M4-5 Mixed, Alpine 3 pitches
Tastee Freeze
 5
M4 Mixed, Alpine 3 pitches
Dairy Lite
 2
M4 Mixed, Alpine 3 pitches
No. 1 Gully
 2
M4 Mixed, Alpine 3 pitches
No. 2 Gully
 1
M3-4 Mixed, Alpine 4 pitches
Steeplechase
 3
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M4 Easy Snow Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
Butterfingers
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M4 Trad, Mixed, Alpine 4 pitches
Astro Turf
 1
M4-5 Trad, Mixed, Alpine 3 pitches
Central Couloir Right
 1
M2 Trad, Mixed, Alpine 4 pitches
Left of Cleft
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4 Steep Snow Mixed, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
East Ridge
 5
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

North side of East Buttress of Hallett, showing a selection of routes above Emerald Lake.
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From left to right: (1) Tastee Freeze, (2) No. 1 Gully, (3) Butterfingers, (4) Central Couloir, (5) East Couloir (a popular ski descent).
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Photo by Zach Eiten.
[Hide Photo] North side of East Buttress of Hallett, showing a selection of routes above Emerald Lake. From left to right: (1) Tastee Freeze, (2) No. 1 Gully, (3) Butterfingers, (4) Central Couloir, (5) East…