East Buttress Climbing

The climbing here can be described as scrappy easy mixed climbing with low objective hazard. Most routes are M3-M4 with a bit of M5 here and there. It's generally good from January to May and involves easy drytooling and turf climbing, with no ice but enough loose rock that freezing temps and some snow are needed to catch best conditions. Although the quality of climbing here is not great, given the low avalanche risk, easy grades, and short approach, it makes for a great place to learn how to trad mixed climb, or for a good stormy weather day when bigger or more technical objectives may not be as appealing.

Routes here include: East Ridge, Central Couloir Right, Coconut Bliss, Tastee Freeze, Dairy Lite, No. 1 Gully, No. 2 Gully, Steeplechase, Butterfingers, Left of the Cleft, and Astro Turf.

Most routes share the same descent options which generally involve walking down Hallett Couloir, walking down couloirs into Chaos Canyon or (on bad avalanche risk days) rappelling the route of ascent from trees and boulders with a pair of 60m ropes.