Elevation: 11,062 ft
GPS: 40.306, -105.672 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,376 total · 383/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Feb 7, 2019 with improvements by Andy Hansen
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Tonight
28°F -2°C
Memorial Day
37°F - 20°F 3°C - -7°C
Tue
28°F - 21°F -2°C - -6°C
Wed
34°F - 23°F 1°C - -5°C
Thu
42°F - 29°F 6°C - -2°C
Fri
44°F - 30°F 7°C - -1°C
Sat
44°F - 30°F 7°C - -1°C

Description

The climbing here can be described as scrappy easy mixed climbing with low objective hazard. Most routes are M3-M4 with a bit of M5 here and there. It's generally good from January to May and involves easy drytooling and turf climbing, with no ice but enough loose rock that freezing temps and some snow are needed to catch best conditions. Although the quality of climbing here is not great, given the low objective hazard (especially low avy risk), easy grades, and short approach, it makes for a great place to learn how to trad mixed climb, or for a good stormy weather day when bigger or more technical objectives may not be as appealing.

Routes here include: East Ridge, Central Couloir Right, Coconut Bliss, Tastee Freeze, Dairy Lite, No. 1 Gully, No. 2 Gully, Steeplechase, Butterfingers, Left of the Cleft, and Astro Turf.

Most routes share the same descent options which generally involve walking down Hallett Couloir, walking down couloirs into Chaos Canyon or (on bad avalanche risk days) rappelling the route of ascent from trees and boulders with a pair of 60m ropes.

Getting There

Approach from the Bear Lake Trailhead. Hike/ski/snowshoe to Emerald Lake. From here, the going gets more variable.

11 Total Climbs

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Location: East Buttress Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at East Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
 5
East Ridge
Snow, Alpine
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M4 Easy Snow
 3
Steeplechase
Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Ridge
 5
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine
Steeplechase
 3
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M4 Easy Snow Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in East Buttress »

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