To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Bearclaw Spire
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (14) First Creek Canyon
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Bearclaw Spire, also known as White Pinnacle Peak, is a sharp point on the southeast flank of Mount Wilson. Despite having no real prominence, it sports a massive southern escarpment. The spire and its buttresses host a few established climbs in addition to a smattering of mystery anchors. The walkoff is a hoot - one of the coolest in Red Rock(s) - bring good shoes for it.
Getting There
Approach: about 1.5 hours. Park at First Creek trailhead and hike into First Creek. The spire is visible on the initial part of the walk. Approach as for Slot Club Wall by climbing out of First Creek itself up the sunny south-facing slope. Traverse left along the base of Slot Club Wall and scramble up a gully to the terrace below the obvious Maw above. Walk along the terrace a few hundred yards toward the various routes in the vicinity of Bearclaw.
Descent: Walk the narrow ridge and scramble all the way down the northeast gully. This is a trippy adventure featuring fixed rope ladders, tunnels, and other (non-technical) shenanigans. Route-finding is easy.
[Hide Comment] The first fixed rope you come to on the descent gully is aging and could use replacement (as of Jan '23). Would take about 40 feet of beefier cord, and possibly a knife to cut what's there (tied to a bolt/chain). The lower fixed line looks almost new (actually two parallel lines, one thicker and thinner).
Jan 26, 2023
[Hide Comment] Mark Limage, et al. explored much of this zone, or at least when he took me up there many years ago he pointed out many of the systems and features that he had been climbing. He'd be a good resource for more info on the history. That day I put up a pitch to the summit of a lower, free-standing pinnacle ground-up but I don't remember much about it apart from it being about 10a or b, kindof a long pitch, being more or less east-facing, and, as I’m sure is obvious, being fairly unremarkable.
Apr 8, 2024
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Yreka, CA