Elevation: 2,466 ft
GPS: 35.163, -93.647 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 26,598 total · 826/month
Shared By: Wade J on Dec 10, 2018
Admins: Tyler KC, JD Borgeson

Description

All but a handful of climbs at Mt. Magazine are located on this cliff face below the lodge. This area contains lots of moderate trad climbs and sport climbs in the 5.10-5.12 range, with the easiest sport route a 5.9+. The rock here is low friction and footwork intensive but offers the best views and winter climbing in the state. The cliff stays in full sun all day long!

Mt. Magazine Proper is also home to the first sport route in the state (Scarlet Begonias, 5.10 PG).

Getting There

From the bottom of the west end lodge parking lot look downhill for a sign designating the rock climbers trail. The trail begins with a series of rock steps leading into a short and steep creek bed, which takes you to the base of the cliff line. Take a left and follow the trail to locate the climbing. The approach time will vary depending on which part of the cliff line you are after.

The trail is overgrown in places with lots of briers. Towards the Satanic Wall & East End (past Centerfold Wall) the trail peters out but keep following the cliff line while watching out for bolts/anchors.

48 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Magazine Proper

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
Junior Achievement
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 31
Cruise Control
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 27
Multi Colored Poptart
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 16
Radical Changes
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 34
Right to Flight/ The Nose
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
Brunch
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 3
W.A.P. (Wet Ass Pitch)
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 17
Sonya Come Home
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Quaranteam
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 11
Scarlet Begonias
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
Natural Stimulant
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Mirage De Sade
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
French Connection
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Eggspecting
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Jupiter Trembled
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Junior Achievement Crag Central
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Cruise Control Crag Central
 31
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Multi Colored Poptart Breakfast Wall
 27
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Radical Changes Hallucinogen Wall
 16
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Right to Flight/ The Nose Crag Central
 34
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Brunch Breakfast Wall
 7
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
W.A.P. (Wet Ass Pitch) Breakfast Wall
 3
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Sonya Come Home Crag Central
 17
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Quaranteam Breakfast Wall
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Scarlet Begonias Crag Central
 11
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Natural Stimulant Breakfast Wall
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Mirage De Sade Hallucinogen Wall
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
French Connection Crag Central
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Eggspecting Breakfast Wall
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Jupiter Trembled Breakfast Wall
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mt. Magazine Proper »

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