Elevation: 2,466 ft
GPS: 35.163, -93.647 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,465 total · 628/month
Shared By: Wade J on Dec 10, 2018
Admins: TylerKC
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Description

All but a handful of climbs at Mt. Magazine are located on this cliff face below the lodge. This area contains lots of moderate trad climbs and sport climbs in the 5.10-5.12 range, with the easiest sport route a 5.9+. The rock here is low friction and footwork intensive but offers the best views and winter climbing in the state. The cliff stays in full sun all day long!

Mt. Magazine Proper is also home to the first sport route in the state (Scarlet Begonias, 5.10 PG).

Getting There

From the bottom of the west end lodge parking lot look downhill for a sign designating the rock climbers trail. The trail begins with a series of rock steps leading into a short and steep creek bed, which takes you to the base of the cliff line. Take a left and follow the trail to locate the climbing. The approach time will vary depending on which part of the cliff line you are after.

The trail is overgrown in places with lots of briers. Towards the Satanic Wall & East End (past Centerfold Wall) the trail peters out but keep following the cliff line while watching out for bolts/anchors.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Magazine Proper

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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