Elevation: 2,466 ft
GPS: 35.163, -93.647 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 14,567 total · 729/month
Shared By: Wade J on Dec 10, 2018
Admins: Tyler KC, JD Borgeson

Description

All but a handful of climbs at Mt. Magazine are located on this cliff face below the lodge. This area contains lots of moderate trad climbs and sport climbs in the 5.10-5.12 range, with the easiest sport route a 5.9+. The rock here is low friction and footwork intensive but offers the best views and winter climbing in the state. The cliff stays in full sun all day long!

Mt. Magazine Proper is also home to the first sport route in the state (Scarlet Begonias, 5.10 PG).

Getting There

From the bottom of the west end lodge parking lot look downhill for a sign designating the rock climbers trail. The trail begins with a series of rock steps leading into a short and steep creek bed, which takes you to the base of the cliff line. Take a left and follow the trail to locate the climbing. The approach time will vary depending on which part of the cliff line you are after.

The trail is overgrown in places with lots of briers. Towards the Satanic Wall & East End (past Centerfold Wall) the trail peters out but keep following the cliff line while watching out for bolts/anchors.

40 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Magazine Proper

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Moonlight Stroll
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
Junior Achievement
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Pepsi Challenge
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 25
Cruise Control
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 21
Multi Colored Poptart
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 14
Radical Changes
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 25
Right to Flight/ The Nose
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Eurodog
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Brunch
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
Sonya Come Home
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
Scarlet Begonias
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Natural Stimulant
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Eggspecting
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Jupiter Trembled
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Moonlight Stroll Breakfast Wall
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Junior Achievement Crag Central
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Pepsi Challenge Party Ledge Wall
 4
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Cruise Control Crag Central
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Multi Colored Poptart Breakfast Wall
 21
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Radical Changes Hallucinogen Wall
 14
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Right to Flight/ The Nose Crag Central
 25
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Eurodog Satanic Wall & E End
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Brunch Breakfast Wall
 5
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Sonya Come Home Crag Central
 16
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Scarlet Begonias Crag Central
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Natural Stimulant Breakfast Wall
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Eggspecting Breakfast Wall
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Jupiter Trembled Breakfast Wall
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mt. Magazine Proper »

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