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Mt. Magazine Proper Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Mt. Magazine Proper

1. First Wall 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

2. Breakfast Wall 10 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21

3. Black on Blonde Wall 2 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10

4. Crag Central 4 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10

5. Party Ledge Wall 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

6. The Hallucinogen Wall 2 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

7. The Footstool 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

8. Centerfold Wall 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

9. Satanic Wall & East End 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

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Elevation:	2,466 ft	752 m
GPS:	35.16323, -93.64745 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	45,230 total · 480/month
Shared By:	Wade J on Dec 10, 2018 · Updates
Admins:	Tyler KC, JD Borgeson Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

All but a handful of climbs at Mt. Magazine are located on this cliff face below the lodge. This area contains lots of moderate trad climbs and sport climbs in the 5.10-5.12 range, with the easiest sport route a 5.9+. The rock here is low friction and footwork intensive but offers the best views and winter climbing in the state. The cliff stays in full sun all day long!

Mt. Magazine Proper is also home to the first sport route in the state (Scarlet Begonias, 5.10 PG).

Getting There

From the bottom of the west end of the lodge parking lot, look downhill for a sign designating the rock climbers trail. The trail begins with a series of rock steps leading into a short and steep creek bed, which takes you to the base of the cliff line. Take a left and follow the trail to locate the climbing. You'll run into the "First Wall" in about 5-8 minutes from the parking lot, but you won't get to the "East End" for 15-20 minutes.

From the 'First Wall' through 'The Hallucinogen Wall' are almost directly one after another with the first big break being between 'The Hallucinogen Wall' to 'The Footstool'. Then an even larger gap between 'The Footstool' to the 'Satanic Wall'.

Order of walls from L -> R (when looking at climbs from the base of walls)

First Wall
Breakfast Wall
Black on Blonde Wall
Party Ledge Wall
Crag Central
Hallucinogen Wall, The
Footstool, The
Centerfold Wall
Satanic Wall & East End

63 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Magazine Proper

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 15 ● Junior Achievement Trad 4. Crag Central
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 37 ● Cruise Control Trad 4. Crag Central
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 38 ● Multi Colored Poptart Sport 2. Breakfast Wall
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 48 ● Right to Flight/ The Nose Trad 4. Crag Central
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 25 ● Radical Changes Trad 6. The Hallucinogen Wall
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 13 ● Solitare Trad 3. Black on Blonde Wall
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 10 ● W.A.P. (Wet Ass Pitch) Sport 2. Breakfast Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 18 ● Sonya Come Home Sport 4. Crag Central
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 13 ● Scarlet Begonias Sport 4. Crag Central
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 14 ● Natural Stimulant Sport 2. Breakfast Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 11 ● Mirage De Sade Sport 6. The Hallucinogen Wall
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 7 ● French Connection Sport 4. Crag Central
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 4 ● Viva Las Vegas Sport 4. Crag Central
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 4 ● Jupiter Trembled Sport 2. Breakfast Wall
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a 4 ● En Vogue Sport 1. First Wall