Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Redmans Tooth

Oregon > Southwest Oregon

Description

The Redman Tooth pinnacles are 200+ foot rhyolitic tuff with ten established routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.10d PG. Top anchors do not have chains so plan on leaving some tied slings or chains. All bolts are Fixe SS double expansion.

An assortment of nuts and cams to 5 inches is helpful.

Note: PG = exposure and leads generally may be unsuited to someone transitioning from gym to outdoor climbing at the same rating.

Getting There

From North Umpqua highway 138, drive approximately 1 mile upstream past the Steamboat Creek junction to Forest Service Road 4713 (Jack Creek Road). This will be the first road to your left after passing Island Campground. Stay on road 4713 approximately 3 miles until you come to Road 200 (4713-200), right side. Continue on road 200 for about 3/4 mile. The first rock you see coming down to the road edge will be Buddha Tooth. Bucktooth, Split Tooth, and Flat Top will be uphill and left of Buddha.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 1
Huevos
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 1
Split Personality
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 1
Deviant Deviations
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 1
Chimney of Karma
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 1
Left Buddha
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
Tower of Dharma
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 1
Right Buddha
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Huevos
 1
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Split Personality
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Deviant Deviations
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Chimney of Karma
 1
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Left Buddha
 1
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Sport
Tower of Dharma
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Right Buddha
 1
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Redmans Tooth Complex
[Hide Photo] Redmans Tooth Complex